Vintage Eagle 36 Volt Golf Cart

[mpleeds]

Hi,
I have no prior golf cart repair or troubleshooting experience and have just acquired a mid 70's Eagle 36 volt golf cart. The previous owner replaced several solenoids but states that it does not operate properly. Is anyone aware of a basic troubleshooting guide or general description of how these operate? Any links or publications would be helpful.
Thanks,
Merrill Leeds

[rusty]

Hello mpleeds and Welcome to the forum.

Since an Eagle is not a common known golf cart, it would be best for you to display several photos of your cart. This is a very old cart by todays golf cart technology.

Every golf cart model is different. We will help all we can but we need much more information.

[mpleeds]

Thank you. Here are some pics.

I have since found out that the wiring is identical to the later 8 solenoid Pargo and that Eagle was made in Long Beach Ca by Par Industries. Included is an old ad jpg.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/29619495@N03/3298196466/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/29619495@N03/3290456905/

[DOOmsman]

Mp I am not up on electric carts but I would say that if you start with a wire by wire trace and draw up a schematic you will be able to figure it out. No hidden transistors, its just like water if in goes in it has to come out. I snooped in your photo stream and that is a bunch of happy kids around the fire truck.

[Ned Digh]

i too have recently acquired a vintage Eagle Cart. I have installed new batteries and have it moving but have not yet got all the whistles and bells in operation. My immediate problem is the hydraulic brakes, when putting in brake fluid, it simply overflows and runs out around the plunger shaft so the master cylinder is due for a rebuild.
The carts appears to have sufficient power for farm and around the yard use but slows down significantly on hills so my guess is that the electric motor will soon need rebuilding care.
If anyone comes up with a manual or wiring diagram for the old Eagle Carts, I am in the market to buy a repro copy. Ned In MO

[mpleeds]

Ned,

I recently purchased a brand new Wilwood 260-6579 master cylinder for $28 on Ebay. This is less than the price of a rebuilding kit (if you could find one).

In regard to the motor, you most likely do not need a rebuild. These old series motors are very well built (check the commutator and brushes for wear). Also, if yours has a Westinghouse motor, make sure that the timing is set correctly. The motor casing will rotate about 1/4" for timing.

Keep in mind that these carts were not designed to race up hills, but there are some things you can do to give it more torque. Try replacing the cables with 4 gauge if it currently has 6 gauge. Also, I converted mine to electronic speed control with a 300 amp Curtis 1204 and PB6 pot box. This has greatly improved the low end torque and up hill speed and provides for very smooth acceleration.

Here is a link to the wiring diagram (same as 8 solenoid Pargo).

http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data...Diagram_HR.jpg

Have Fun!

Merrill Leeds

[dock98]

welcome to the forums Ned Digh.

[Ned Digh]

Thanks to Merrill Leeds for the info on a wiring diagram, master cylinder, and the motor. You have increased my confidence in getting this cart in better operating condition. The body, frame, and running gear all appear to be sound, just need some TLC. Ned in MO

[Ned Digh]

I now have my Eagle cart going. One problem remains: the charger is not connecting to the batteries. I found one more wire last night that is not corrected. It has a piece of tape on it marked #6. A previous wire, tagged # 9 was connected to battery post #9 but no difference, connected or not connected. I found a direct replacement master cylinder on ebay. The brakes have a really hard pedal so apparently the brakes need to be relined, another task for another day. Ned in MO

[mpleeds]

Ned,
Trace the 2 wires from the battery charger receptacle. The pos(+) wire should go to the + battery post and the neg(-) wire should go to the - battery post. Make sure that you connect to the first and last post in your battery bank series. If, after verifying this connection, you are still not charging, the problem is most likely a bad charger. As a test, connect your volt meter to the
+ and - battery terminals and note the voltage. Then turn on the charger. The voltage should now be higher. If so, your charger is probably good.