Adding Alltrax SR48500 To 2000 DS 36V Series Cart

[KRAZYMATT]

In this schematic it shows a "run switch" and also a "foot switch" are these the same things? Or is there a microswitch in the vglide then a another switch under the floor at the pedal?

[KRAZYMATT]

Sprayed everything down with kroil last night so I started to remove the old wiring and components, most of it came off with no issues however I did manage to break a stud on the motor on the a2 terminal. Hoping this is one that connects to the brushes? I planned on replacing those while it was apart anyways. Still frustrating! Also having heck of a time removing the f-n-r lever from the switch itself. Tried prying every which way. Gonna try small gear puller from work tommorow if that doesn't work gonna have to break or cut it off to remove it...

[KRAZYMATT]

Any photos or input on where to mount all these components?

Here's a photo of the wire I'll be using for my battery cables. 50,000 VDC rated 2awg tinned copper wire.

[NoleFan4Ever]

That is AWM (Appliance Wiring Material) and we usually use Excelene or welding cable as it is more flexible and and is oil/abrasion resistant. AWM will work, but may not hold up as well in this environment and that is most likely going to be a PVC jacket.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by KRAZYMATT

Sprayed everything down with kroil last night so I started to remove the old wiring and components, most of it came off with no issues however I did manage to break a stud on the motor on the a2 terminal. Hoping this is one that connects to the brushes? I planned on replacing those while it was apart anyways. Still frustrating! Also having heck of a time removing the f-n-r lever from the switch itself. Tried prying every which way. Gonna try small gear puller from work tommorow if that doesn't work gonna have to break or cut it off to remove it...

Sometimes a little heat on the plastic handle will help pop it lose, but it not, you have to do what you have to do and them replace it.

[KRAZYMATT]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

That is AWM (Appliance Wiring Material) and we usually use Excelene or welding cable as it is more flexible and and is oil/abrasion resistant. AWM will work, but may not hold up as well in this environment and that is most likely going to be a PVC jacket.

This is extremely flexible, probably double the flexibility of welding cable. The jacketing is silicone. It is used in motor wiring also.

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

Sometimes a little heat on the plastic handle will help pop it lose, but it not, you have to do what you have to do and them replace it.

Yes going to be using a different f-n-r switch anyways. One way or another it's coming off tonight!


Question on the diode for the main contactor, the alltrax drawings say one thing and then the instructions section of the manual says another. Again I am using the SR48500 controller and the heavy duty 400 amp solenoid (MJZ-400A). They tell you to put a diode across the coil of the contactor. The instructions say to use the 1N5408 diode which is only rated for 200 amps then the drawing sheets call for the MR754 400 amp diodes. I'm pretty sure I need to use the diode rated for the contactor (400 amps) MR754.

Originally Posted by scottyb

Use the 400a SW202 reversing contactor kit with the SR500 control. Use 2 more 3a 1000v diodes on the coils. .

Which are the 3a 1000v diodes? I don't know if I have any of those unless it's the MR754?

[Sergio]

The MR754 (6 amp) will work great for the contactor coil.

Those diodes are sized based on the contactor cold coil current, not the contact current.

As far as wiring the FNR, most of the contactors on the Market are not "continuous duty" and will get damaged if left ON overnight.

Since the coils dissipate as much as 60w when operating, it really makes more sense to only allow the contactor to operate when the pedal is pressed.

Here is the caveat, if you wire the reversing contactor after the pedal switch, that also means it will be possible to switch the FNR while the pedal is pressed and the Controller is actively sending power to the motor.

That is not good for the contactor and that is why You will notice the wiring from Alltrax recommends having the contactor switch before the pedal micro-switch.

Since the FNR switch provided by ScottyB is a DPDT switch, you can take care of both requirements and have the FNR work as an "anti-arcing" switch and a directional control switch.

Just wire the cart per the diagram below for the optimal operation:


Edit: I just noticed I forgot to put the Main Solenoid connection in the diagram It gets connected with the wire that goes to the Alltrax RED - KSI wire.

[KRAZYMATT]

Got the f-n-r lever off and all the wiring ripped out of the cart. Need to remove the body clean the frame real good. There's a couple of corroded spots and the battery trays are gone so I will need to replace them.

[KRAZYMATT]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Here is the caveat, if you wire the reversing contactor after the pedal switch, that also means it will be possible to switch the FNR while the pedal is pressed and the Controller is actively sending power to the motor.

Is this still an issue of a on-off-on style switch is used? What is the difference in putting the f-n-r switch before or after the foot switch? If it is pressed down (contact closed) and gear is changed at the switch it will have the same affect, right?

[Sergio]

Not at all, if the SPDT FNR is after the pedal switch, You can have the throttle partially pessed, put in Neutral and the contactor will break under load, put it back in gear and it will close under load.

If You put the SPDT FNR before the pedal switch, the contactor will stay powered as long as FNR is in gear, even if parked with the Key ON.

If you already have a DPDT switch, the diagram I posted does not cost anything to implement even if you think no one that will ever drive your cart would accidently change gears while maneuvering without fully releasing the pedal.