Help with intermittent "No go" issue - 2001 TXT 36v

[jpoarch]

Update!

The problem has resurfaced several times, and each time it was a loose butt splice on one of the 4 wires, so I crimped a new one on each time, and we were back on the road.

Now it's doing it again, so I've removed all 4 butt splices and twisted the wires together to test.....no go. The controller clicks green 4 times then stays solid with the accelerator pressed, but the wheels don't spin.

Could there be an issue in the box below the floorboard where the accelerator linkage spring is / controller wires come out of?

[jpoarch]

Ok...wiggled the red and white wire coming out of the charging receptacle and prodded my fingers in there, and now the wheels are turning. I remember reading a post where the reed switch goes bad or the wires lose connection, so I'm on the right path again!

[jpoarch]

The reed switch is bypassed, but the other end of the red wire that was used to bypass it isn't hooked to anything. Is that right?

[jpoarch]

Anyone?

[kernal]

On my cart the reed switch is not bypassed. The red wire goes from the charge receptacle to the micro switch (ms2 on the diagram I believe) on the F/R switch. When you bypass the reed switch you leave the connection on the micro switch alone but you connect the other end of that red wire either to the white wire coming from the charge receptacle or to B+ (battery main + connection).
I believe I am correct on this but wait for another opinion.

However, I believe there is something else going on here because if this is not done correctly the cart would never run because there would be a break in the solenoid activation circuit. Wouldn't be an intermittent issue as you have.

[scottyb]

If the controller has a green light ( any light ) the power supply from the reed switch is not a problem.
It sounds like the problem could be in the pedal box switch or wiring. This switch is the trigger for the solenoid activation. If the controller LED is lighted and the solenoid does not click open the pedal box and test the micro switch for about 30-50 cycles. Also look for water or damaged wires.

[jpoarch]

Thanks guys...I think it's a pedal box / wiring issue. It died on me again yesterday and I slammed the pedal down with my foot several times (hard cuz I've had about enough of this darn thing) and it lunged forward and started going. I'll open the pedal switch box and look around.

[jpoarch]

Update:

The problem resurfaced again, so I decided to upgrade the controller to a SR48500 & 400 solenoid from Scotty. Everything is installed and solenoid clicks when the pedal is pressed, and I'm seeing throttle activity in the Alltrax software / no error codes, but the motor won't turn.

I wired 2 batteries up to the motor, and it spins, so it must be in the 6AWG wires from the motor to the F/R switch, the F/R switch, or the ITS.

I've got full pack voltage to the bottom post (A) on the F/R switch, but no voltage on B, D, or C posts in forward or reverse with pedal pressed. Should I have pack voltage on any of those?

Also noticed the wire from F/R post C to motor A1 is gnarled heavily at the connector....trying to track one down to test it.

[JohnnieB]

Should get voltage on all four studs on the F/R. If you don't the F/R contacts are not making contact.

In Forward, A connect to D and C connect to B. B+ comes in on A so there is an open between A and D.

Since it is a lifted cart with larger than stock tires, all 13 of the high amp cables ought to be 4Ga or thicker and the F/R should be the super duty one Scotty sells (many of the HD ones being sold are not all that HD), or a reversing contactor.

[jpoarch]

Thanks Johnny....definitely only getting voltage on stud A...none on the others. Can you adjust the contacts, or is the F/R switch bad?