lifted club cars - lifted ezgo
Home FAQDonate Who's Online
Go Back   Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum > Golf Cart Repair and Troubleshooting > Electric EZGO
Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



Post New Thread  Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-19-2012, 04:51 PM   #21
racinjason89
Not Yet Wild
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 65
Default Re: Key Switch/Voltage Reducer question

Okay. I'm totally lost. Please look at the pictures below and tell me how to hook up the 2nd solenoid to control the voltage reducer. Here is what I have

Picture one is the solenoid on the cart. Terminals #1 and #2 have battery pack voltage (38v) all the time with the key off. Terminal #3 gets 38v with the key on, which then gives terminal #4 36v. There is no diode present anywhere on this solenoid.

Note: terminals #3 and #4 have continuity at all times.
So I'm confused as to what is actually switching?

Picture 2 is the solenoid I have to run the voltage reducer.
Note: terminals# 3 and #4 also have continuity at all times.

PICTURE #1

PICTURE #2
racinjason89 is offline   Reply With Quote
Alt Today
BGW

Golf car forum Sponsored Links

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum
   
Old 12-20-2012, 05:59 AM   #22
timbo73
Not Yet Wild
 
timbo73's Avatar
E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Dearborn, MI
Posts: 27
Default Re: Key Switch/Voltage Reducer question

racinjason89, The solenoid in you first picture should not be used in your voltage reducer circuit as it is subject to high voltage spikes. The purpose of this solenoid to to provide high current voltage to you motor.

The small post on the solenoid are always going to have continuity as they are the activation for the magnet the pushes up the plunger that closes the bridge across the two large posts. Use the key switch for B+ on one small terminal and the other small terminal goes to B- on the battery pack.

Next the large terminals on the solenoid just interrupts the flow of current like water running through a pipe that has valve. When the plunger in the solenoid closes the bridge across the large terminals, which is activated when the key switch on, current is allowed to flow.

Thus, one large terminal goes to B+ on the battery pack the other to positive input on the voltage reducer. Then run the B- input on the voltage reducer back to B- on the batter pack.

As for the diode it get placed across the small terminal of the solenoid the band on the side that run to the key switch.
timbo73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2012, 12:30 PM   #23
Offtwice
Member 23082
 
Offtwice's Avatar
Club Car
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Spokane Washington
Posts: 1,169
Default Re: Key Switch/Voltage Reducer question

I could use some feedback.

I am using a contactor to turn on my voltage reducers (72 volt to 12 volt), switched by the ignition (dark blue wire).




The contactor is has two "Load In" wires (1 to the ignition (light blue) and 1 to the 72v battery pack (white)). On the "Load Out" side of the contactor, I have 3 leads to 3 voltage reducers (3 white) and one lead to the positive side of my voltage meter (red).

My voltage meter failed, and while I have been told this is a fluke, I am wondering if the spike of volts to the meter when the contactor closed is the reason. I am installing a new voltmeter this morning and wondering if I should get the positive lead from somewhere else. Perhaps off of the ignition?

I don't want to run it directly from batteries as I don't want to install another switch just for this.

I guess I am not sure if the contactor is the reason this voltmeter really died, you would think these meters are always subject to a spike when they initially get powered up. Am I overthinking this?
Offtwice is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2012, 03:22 PM   #24
JohnnieB
Techno-Nerd
 
JohnnieB's Avatar
E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
Default Re: Key Switch/Voltage Reducer question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Offtwice View Post

1. The contactor is has two "Load In" wires (1 to the ignition (light blue) and 1 to the 72v battery pack (white)).

2. On the "Load Out" side of the contactor, I have 3 leads to 3 voltage reducers (3 white) and one lead to the positive side of my voltage meter (red).


3. My voltage meter failed, and while I have been told this is a fluke, I am wondering if the spike of volts to the meter when the contactor closed is the reason. I am installing a new voltmeter this morning and wondering if I should get the positive lead from somewhere else. Perhaps off of the ignition?

I don't want to run it directly from batteries as I don't want to install another switch just for this.

I guess I am not sure if the contactor is the reason this voltmeter really died, you would think these meters are always subject to a spike when they initially get powered up. Am I overthinking this?
1. Unless this terminal (Load In) is being used for a tie point for the 72V input to your Keyswitch, I don't see the reason for the Light Blue wire.

2. Looks okay.

3. I don't see anything that should blow a voltmeter in that set-up.
In general terms, DVMs are fairly impervious to spikes due to their high input impedance.
JohnnieB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2012, 03:24 PM   #25
Offtwice
Member 23082
 
Offtwice's Avatar
Club Car
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Spokane Washington
Posts: 1,169
Default Re: Key Switch/Voltage Reducer question

It is just a tie-in - thanks for the feedback JohnnieB
Offtwice is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2012, 09:50 AM   #26
racinjason89
Not Yet Wild
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 65
Default Re: Key Switch/Voltage Reducer question

Quote:
Originally Posted by timbo73 View Post
racinjason89, The solenoid in you first picture should not be used in your voltage reducer circuit as it is subject to high voltage spikes. The purpose of this solenoid to to provide high current voltage to you motor.

The small post on the solenoid are always going to have continuity as they are the activation for the magnet the pushes up the plunger that closes the bridge across the two large posts. Use the key switch for B+ on one small terminal and the other small terminal goes to B- on the battery pack.

Next the large terminals on the solenoid just interrupts the flow of current like water running through a pipe that has valve. When the plunger in the solenoid closes the bridge across the large terminals, which is activated when the key switch on, current is allowed to flow.

Thus, one large terminal goes to B+ on the battery pack the other to positive input on the voltage reducer. Then run the B- input on the voltage reducer back to B- on the batter pack.

As for the diode it get placed across the small terminal of the solenoid the band on the side that run to the key switch.

Thank you for the reply. I'll give that a try.
racinjason89 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Go Back   Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum > Golf Cart Repair and Troubleshooting > Electric EZGO


Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Forum
Question on running wire from key switch to voltage reducer Electric EZGO
Voltage reducer wired thru battery or switch? Electric Club Car
Voltage reducer Question Electric Club Car
voltage reducer switch help! Electric Club Car
voltage reducer, need to switch off? Electric EZGO


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:18 AM.


Club Car Electric | EZGO Electric | Lifted Golf Carts | Gas EZGO | Used Golf Carts and Parts

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
This Website and forum is the property of Buggiesgonewild.com. No material may be taken or duplicated in part or full without prior written consent of the owners of buggiesgonewild.com. © 2006-2017 Buggiesgonewild.com. All rights reserved.