HID LIGHT KIT now cart won't move

[scooterman]

if you can take pictures of the wiring that was modified for these lights behind the new dash you installed. It may be as simple as a loose wire.

Take your test meter and measure the voltage from battery terminal #1 & the negative you moved it to, I bet you are over voltage, probably reading 24 volts where you should have 12. If so, then undo that, mayter face disconnect your lights from the batteries all together and see what happens.

If this is true, half the issue is resolved, you should run lights off the entire pack and use a reducer anyways but we can discuss that later.

[GeneralLee]

Originally Posted by jjance

If you had it in tow you wouldn't have heard the roll away beeps.

So just to test what you said, and to make sure I am not losing my mind because I am anal about turning the tow switch on to push cart.

I just pushed it in the garage while in tow and the cart beeps. Is that a bad thing???

[MudHog]

Originally Posted by GeneralLee

On Battery #4 the previous owner had the HID Headlight wires both red, one has a small piece of black tape every foot. The one with black tape on it is connected to the negative of battery #4.

This is a very common practice electrical practice. For example, some folks will buy only black wire and use different colored tape to define wire color. Think of home wiring (THHN), the insulators are all black. "Neutral" is white, so electricians will use white tape to define the Neutral wire.

[scooterman]

Originally Posted by MudHog

This is a very common practice electrical practice. For example, some folks will buy only black wire and use different colored tape to define wire color. Think of home wiring (THHN), the insulators are all black. "Neutral" is white, so electricians will use white tape to define the Neutral wire.

you're thinking commercial or wiring run in conduit not romex lol but valid point.

[jroeiii]

Originally Posted by GeneralLee

On Battery #4 the previous owner had the HID Headlight wires both red, one has a small piece of black tape every foot. The one with black tape on it is connected to the negative of battery #4.

OK now I get it ... by using the POS / NEG on Battery #4 ... it's only 12 Volts, if using POS / Battery #4 and NEG on Battery #1 is would be 48 Volts.

Again not ideal (and definitely NOT COMMON practice), but should work and is not the immediate issue.

Just a thought -- Have you tried to reset the OBC?

Copied from the alltraxinc.com website.
Resetting the OBC
To reset the OBC the following must be done in this
order:
• Key Switch to Off
• Forward/Reverse to Neutral
• Tow/Run Switch to Tow
• Disconnect the Battery NEGATIVE (–) wire from the Battery Minus terminal on battery #1
• Put the Tow/Run to Run
• Forward/Reverse Switch to Reverse
• Key Switch to On
• Lock the throttle pedal down
The reverse buzzer will sound and go off in about 30
seconds. Leave the cart like that for 5 min to cause the
OBC to reset.
To reconnect the OBC back into the system:
• Key Switch to Off
• Forward/Reverse Switch to Neutral
• Tow/Run switch to Tow
• Reconnect the Batt – wire to the Battery Minus terminal on battery #1
Once the OBC has been reset, the cart can be
troubleshot. There is always a chance the OBC has
completely failed and the reset process will not fix the
problem. Consult your Club Car manuals or contact
Alltrax for more troubleshooting of vehicles with an
OBC.

[MudHog]

Wiring in conduit yes and I was more referring to service entrance on a residence, but principle can be applied to exposed wiring too. Another example being the wiring upgrade on my CC DS, I'm buying all black wire and using colored heat shrink on my ring connectors to define wires.

Either way, I didn't want the OP worrying about having two red wires from the post about it being odd.

Back on topic.

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by GeneralLee

So just to test what you said, and to make sure I am not losing my mind because I am anal about turning the tow switch on to push cart.

I just pushed it in the garage while in tow and the cart beeps. Is that a bad thing???

Yes, but it probably points to the likely source of the problem.... Under normal wiring conditions, there is no way for the walk away brake to work when the switch is on tow.
Disconnect the positive wire you have on the +48v pack connection going to your lights. It looks like you have miss wired or shorted that somewhere in the dash and it is providing +48v to the harness even when the tow switch is on tow.

Actually disconnect both of your light connections to the battery for now and test pushing on tow again.

Edit:Make sure You tape the disconnected wires as they may be live.

[GeneralLee]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Yes, but it probably points to the likely source of the problem.... Under normal wiring conditions, there is no way for the walk away brake to work when the switch is on tow.
Disconnect the positive wire you have on the +48v pack connection going to your lights. It looks like you have miss wired or shorted that somewhere in the dash and it is providing +48v to the harness even when the tow switch is on tow.

Actually disconnect both of your light connections to the battery for now and test pushing on tow again.

Edit:Make sure You tape the disconnected wires as they may be live.

Okay so I removed both wires to Battery #4(taped in case live) from the head lights and i pushed cart while in TOW the cart doesn't beep.

[GeneralLee]

Originally Posted by jroeiii

OK now I get it ... by using the POS / NEG on Battery #4 ... it's only 12 Volts, if using POS / Battery #4 and NEG on Battery #1 is would be 48 Volts.

Again not ideal (and definitely NOT COMMON practice), but should work and is not the immediate issue.

Just a thought -- Have you tried to reset the OBC?


[/B]

I Have not tried to reset the OBC yet.

[scooterman]

LOL looks like your getting closer to fixing the issue. Does the cart run now?