Club Car Prec. - Torque Curve, Delta Volt Charge Meter, Top End Speed

[WingShooter55]

Greetings Buggies Guru's:

Sorry to toss 3 items into one thread but if I can get recommendations, I'm grateful.

The patient: 2011 CC Precedent 48VDC (6ea. 8V Batts) Alltrax XCT300 Cntrlr (New), MCOR 2 (new), 6" Lift, 14" wheels, Low Profile Turf Tires, Stock motor (ADC), Stock motor magnet.

Issue1: Looking to ease the Torque curve to lessen the Head-Snap at throttle engagement. The programming guide is a bit vague, or I'm a lot dense, when it comes to Torque. Is the curve steep and then flat or Flat and then steep? (Doh!) I'm asking for ideas on the 'Middle Ground' for easier take-offs, but not sacrificing hill climbing. if you have a table or other data points for a custom set, I'm open to trying.

Issue2: The new Delta Volt Charge Meter has not functioned properly since install a few days ago. The indications are a flicker of the "Low Voltage" LED at the moment of connector mating. Thinking this might be a sequencing issue, I removed all Batt connections, Connector-ed the cable, and landed the Batt Lugs, in sequence of Green, Black, Red. Still No Joy on this meter. All illustrated schematics indicated the +, - (Red/Black) are across 1 Batt, regardless of Batt voltage (12, 8, 6 VDC). Is this accurate? Should I place across 2, 8VDC batts and reduce to 12 VDC? I've tried to look up the operating voltage for this meter, but Google reflects Nada. Any insights here are appreciated. At full Batt charge, I get 8.3 - 8.5 individual and a field/bank voltage of 51.1.

Issue3: Top-End Speed seems a bit low - MHO. Adding two GPS Speed ratings of the Alltrax XCT300 Throttle Curve. The Custom Curve garnered 23 MPH. This was Turbo/Street enabled. The Linear Curve was Standard/Turbo (disabled) across the same distance and course. Of course I want the top end but I may have the motor specs out of whack (Max Revs 5106), 300 Amps, Regen at 15%.

Appreciate all comments/suggestions...

[WingShooter55]

Update to Issue 1:
I programmed the attached Throttle and Torque Curves. Much better take-off and smooth up through the throttle range. Hope this helps someone out there.

I bought parts for chasing Issue 2. Arrival Friday and install over the weekend. I'll update that progress as I get through it.

[Night life]

As far as speed, 23 is about right for your setup. Controller will add torque, not speed (other than bypass speed codes)

[WingShooter55]

Update to Issue 2: Charge Meter not working.

Below is a diagram of today's efforts. The Electrical guys out there might be able to help me. The meter still blinks at the lowest LED (red) and, per the manual, indicates a very low Battery Pack (Full Charge on-board). Terminal Block confirms 12.7 VDC. Connected the Green, Black, Red in sequence. Still not sure what the issue could be with this meter - other than the meter being on an isolated GRD. The instructions are clear - the Red and Black to the same power course and the green to (+) of the last Batt. The USP Charger works great.

I thought about adding a GRD link Wire (Black Dotted Line) to tie the GRD's to a common potential - BUT wanted to see if anyone might know this issue and could Toss the Old Man a Bone?

Thanks R.

[Night life]

Not familiar with that meter, but most meters I have seen should track pack voltage, not individual battery voltage. I would think the Red and black should be hooked into your pack positive and pack negative which should be on opposite sides of your battery compartment. Maybe the green is a trigger wire that turns the unit on?

[Night life]

Found this:


https://www.batterystuff.com/files/b...uge_081512.pdf

Looks straight forward. You did buy the 48v model of the meter correct?

[WingShooter55]

Night Life, this is the manual I have in-hand for the meter I purchased. I confirmed the model BFD-48. Looking closely to page 6, I have 6ea 8VDC batts. The illustration shows a 12V batt value for each. That drove me to the reducer, giving 12 volts. I could try the Red Meter wire to Batt 2, I doubt that 16VDC as a power input would overrun the meter operating voltage, but again, looking for insights from those who might have faced this before. Your assistance and input is valuable.

[Night life]

You should not be running off your reducer at all.

Directly connect as shown in the manual. You are looking for 48vts (actually almost 51) as a full charge. Not 12...

[Night life]

You should have the green on the same terminal as the red wire going to your controller, the black on the same terminal your black ground that goes to your OBC and the red wire, follow the directions and place on the next battery's positive (next to the battery you just placed the green wire)

[Sergio]

The Black and Red wires should be connected to 8v.

The meter is probably using that voltage to determined the best SOC scale to use for the pack.

Black Wire - Pack Negative.
Red wire - Positive post of pack negative battery (+8v).
Green wire - Pack Positive.