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Old 02-09-2014, 08:46 PM   #21
UroGator
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Default Re: Inline toggle switch for reducer question

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Originally Posted by Sarge50 View Post
I has a reducer installed on my RXV witha Heavy duty switch. The reducer smoked itself after about 10 off/on cycles. Installed a separate 12 volt battery which works much better and doesn't pull from the pack.
Wow. That smoking mess is what I'm trying to avoid. Don't want to burn anything down. What amp rating switch were you using?

Seems like a separate 12 v battery is the way to go. What size and type 12 v battery do you use? Do you just charge it with a separate 12 v charger each time you charge the cart?
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Old 02-10-2014, 08:40 AM   #22
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Default Re: Inline toggle switch for reducer question

You already have the voltage reducer???Make it work,36v to 12 or 48 to 12 use Scottys relay sugestion.I have done the charger relays key operated and had failures but that could have been due to aftermarket relays. If you want to make it bullet proof use a main solenoid for the proper voltage 36 or 48. It is strong enough to handle complete pack voltage and is designed to open and close every time you are on or off the go pedal.I have a 30 amp reducer on a 48v cart key operated 48v main solenoid,on and off every time the key is on or off.I run light kit,interrior lights,radio and amp with no problems,no draw
on pack in storage,no 2nd charger to keep 12 volt charged..My 2 cents
Dave
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Old 02-10-2014, 08:45 AM   #23
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Default Re: Inline toggle switch for reducer question

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You already have the voltage reducer???Make it work,36v to 12 or 48 to 12 use Scottys relay sugestion.I have done the charger relays key operated and had failures but that could have been due to aftermarket relays. If you want to make it bullet proof use a main solenoid for the proper voltage 36 or 48. It is strong enough to handle complete pack voltage and is designed to open and close every time you are on or off the go pedal.I have a 30 amp reducer on a 48v cart key operated 48v main solenoid,on and off every time the key is on or off.I run light kit,interrior lights,radio and amp with no problems,no draw
on pack in storage,no 2nd charger to keep 12 volt charged..My 2 cents
Dave
Thanks. Sounds like you have it figured out. A bit too complicated for me to understand though through words only. I'm a visual learner and like diagrams but I understand if it's too much to ask. Thanks for your advice
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Old 02-10-2014, 08:52 AM   #24
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Default Re: Inline toggle switch for reducer question

Shoot an e-mail or PM to Scotty B,he has a diagram he will send you,he is also a site sponsor and can sell you anything you need.He is also a nice guy but don't tell him I said that !!Dave
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Old 02-10-2014, 08:57 AM   #25
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Default Re: Inline toggle switch for reducer question

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Got it. Thanks. So did you install a 36v or 48v specific switch so you don't weld the switch together as mentioned above? If so, can you point me to the switch you use? Thanks
Gator....I just went to my local Radio Shack and picked up a standard toggle switch....so it will handle any voltage/amps you will ever use on a cart. My DC Converter is rated at 30 amp. every now and then I will go fishing, and leave the radio playing....for as much as 6 or 7 hours, never had an issue.
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Old 02-10-2014, 10:17 AM   #26
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Default Re: Inline toggle switch for reducer question

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Gator....I just went to my local Radio Shack and picked up a standard toggle switch....so it will handle any voltage/amps you will ever use on a cart. My DC Converter is rated at 30 amp. every now and then I will go fishing, and leave the radio playing....for as much as 6 or 7 hours, never had an issue.
Was this toggle rated for 36v or a certain amp load? Can you tell me which model you got?
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Old 02-10-2014, 10:28 AM   #27
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Default Re: Inline toggle switch for reducer question

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Was this toggle rated for 36v or a certain amp load? Can you tell me which model you got?
well.....the switch I got I could put 120v thru....like AC house current. as I just went into Radio Shack, as there is one close, and picked one up....seeing as how it was rated so that 120v/30A AC could go thru it.....36V/30A wasn't going to hurt it. Its been 9 months ago.....so do I know exactly which one?

you could also go to any autozone or O'Reilly's and pick up any 30A toggle there.
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Old 02-10-2014, 10:45 AM   #28
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Default Re: Inline toggle switch for reducer question

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well.....the switch I got I could put 120v thru....like AC house current. as I just went into Radio Shack, as there is one close, and picked one up....seeing as how it was rated so that 120v/30A AC could go thru it.....36V/30A wasn't going to hurt it. Its been 9 months ago.....so do I know exactly which one?

you could also go to any autozone or O'Reilly's and pick up any 30A toggle there.
Ok. Makes sense that the AC toggle should be able to handle the DC 30A at 36 V
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Old 02-10-2014, 11:27 AM   #29
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Default Re: Inline toggle switch for reducer question

compare loads per Ohm's law.
http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohm...calculator.php
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Old 02-12-2014, 11:15 AM   #30
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Default Re: Inline toggle switch for reducer question

My Truck battery was getting a little low on CCA. I bought a new one for the truck and picked up some terminals to convert my old one to a screw type connector. I put the old truck battery on the drivers side of the RXV, fit perfect. I use a 12 volt charger to recharge. Radio and lights do not put much of a drain on the extra battery. As previously stated, the voltage reducer burnt out pretty quick, thank god for the 20 amp fuse which also smoked itself. Granted I used a cheap transformer from Amazon, but I think the on/off cycle is what caused it to fry.
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