94 club car drive clutch rebuild

[mndanielsncsu]

Ended up using a harmonic balancer puller that I rented from Advance Auto and it did the trick.

[billyclayalexander]

I know it's old but I thought I might help someone. I too couldn't get my drive clutch apart. I finally realized the shape of the tip of the center bolt of my harmonic balance puller would actually as it seated/centered itself on the driven shaft ever so slightly expand the shaft keeping the two pieces from coming apart. I took a flat piece of steel and ground it's diameter down until it would just fit on top of the shaft then when I tightened the center bolt on the harmonic balancer the two parts popped apart easy as pie.

[atistang]

bumping an old thread here.

I am getting ready to rebuild the clutch on my 92 CC. I cannot find any info on the subject. So I remove the snap ring then use the puller to open the clutch up? How much tension is that spring under? Do I need to use caution when opening up this clutch?

Do I need to use a press to put the clutch back together?

[lockman1]

It all depends on how far your going "rebuild" it!
on my buddy's 94, we only went as far as replacing the buttons and thrust washer, because that was all that was needed!
If you want to replace the spring and idler bearing,
it's to my understanding that it's best to use a press to remove and reinstall the Truarc ring to access the spring and misc.!

Once the clutch is off of the engine,
You'll need a 3 way puller (steering wheel/harmonic balancer) to get the outer cover off:

Click pics to enlarge:

img009.jpg

Then you have access to the parts that require maintenance.
(buttons, thrust washer, and weights)

010.JPG

012.JPG

016.JPG

That's where we stopped!

Note: your 92 may have 3 button springs, and a button replacement kit only comes with one,
just use the one replacement spring, it doesn't matter which button it's on!
The other 2 buttons without springs will appear to be loose and sloppy, that's O.K., it's normal!

We pressed the outer cover back on by hand, and gave it a few taps with a mallet to seat the cover, then remounted it to the engine!

[atistang]

Originally Posted by lockman1

It all depends on how far your going "rebuild" it!
on my buddy's 94, we only went as far as replacing the buttons and thrust washer, because that was all that was needed!
If you want to replace the spring and idler bearing,
it's to my understanding that it's best to use a press to remove and reinstall the Truarc ring to access the spring and misc.!

Once the clutch is off of the engine,
You'll need a 3 way puller (steering wheel/harmonic balancer) to get the outer cover off:

Click pics to enlarge:

Attachment 124716

Then you have access to the parts that require maintenance.
(buttons, thrust washer, and weights)

Attachment 124717

Attachment 124718

Attachment 124719

That's where we stopped!

Note: your 92 may have 3 button springs, and a button replacement kit only comes with one,
just use the one replacement spring, it doesn't matter which button it's on!
The other 2 buttons without springs will appear to be loose and sloppy, that's O.K., it's normal!

We pressed the outer cover back on by hand, and gave it a few taps with a mallet to seat the cover, then remounted it to the engine!

Thanks.

So the buttons and thrust washers being worn out will cause the clutch to not shift all the way?. Or would that be in the spring?

What it does is shifts the belt about half way up the ramps and goes no farther

[lockman1]

Worn buttons make the clutch "ding" like a bell on start out, and they sometimes make the movable face stick.
I'm not sure what a worn thrust washer would do,
We saw it was worn when we went to change the buttons, and had to get one from a CC dealer.
(too impatient to order it! )

As for the shifting halfway... It could be just worn buttons,
I've read that some have had a broken spring, and others have had broken weights.
You won't really know until you take it apart!

Note: Upon reassembly... Do not lubricate any parts in the drive clutch! they are designed to operate dry!

Good luck!

[atistang]

Originally Posted by lockman1

Worn buttons make the clutch "ding" like a bell on start out, and they sometimes make the movable face stick.
I'm not sure what a worn thrust washer would do,
We saw it was worn when we went to change the buttons, and had to get one from a CC dealer.
(too impatient to order it! )

As for the shifting halfway... It could be just worn buttons,
I've read that some have had a broken spring, and others have had broken weights.
You won't really know until you take it apart!

Note: Upon reassembly... Do not lubricate any parts in the drive clutch! they are designed to operate dry!

Good luck!

Thanks, good to know about the dry working parts. The way I am I would probably try to lube everything in there lol.