Yamaha G29 / Club Car / Clone build

[BIKERMIKEYBLACK]

Amazing work

[raydhd]

Good info on making sure your clutch is a genuine comet 780

[raydhd]

Bump

[HBR]

I didn't realize how long it has been since I've posted anything. Aside from the below brake project, I have just been enjoying putting miles on the cart.

I had been using front only disc brakes ever since I got this cart running. The biggest problem with the G29 is the front end is so light that the front brakes lock up too easily, thereby reducing their effectiveness. Putting drum brakes on the rear end wasn't an easy task. With the Club Car rear end, bolting up drum brakes is simple, activating them is the hard part. The G29 came with an internal rear brake and uses a single brake cable. So that was the challenge - how to make a cart set-up for a single cable work dual cable brakes. The easiest solution seemed to be switching from cable to hydraulic activation.

I was going to use the switch to drum rear brakes as an opportunity to ditch the 10" rims and go back to stock 8" rims by removing the front disk brakes.

I bought a couple of backing plates on eBay. I noticed that once of them had locating dimples on the back (to better align the back plate with the axle) and the other was flat on the back.



So I made up this little tool to make the dimples on the back.







Here is one of the dimples I made compared to the flat one:



The next step was removing the guide plate where the cable brakes slide.


After a lot of test fitting, here are the welded up backing plates for the hydraulic wheel cylinders.


Final test fitting:




All bolted up:

[HBR]

While I was removing the Jake's disc brakes, I took the opportunity to install grease fittings on the factory spindles like the Jake's set-up.




I also had to redo the speed/odometer sensor set-up to work with the "factory" configuration.


With the Jake's disc brakes, I had the reservoir under the seat near the forward/reverse selector. That wasn't going to work with the new system so I moved the reservoir under the cup holder where it is still accessible by removing one screw.


One line connection:


T-fitting bolted to the rear end:


Wheel cylinder connections:




Finally the set-up to the brake pedal:




I was working with scrap SS at this point so this was the best I could come up with to join the pedal to the master cylinder. I have found that SS bends easier than the same thickness of steel, so I went overkill in beefing this up.


I completed this conversion in early Fall but forget how many miles I started with. I know I hadn't turned the mileage over, so this set-up has at least 462 miles on it.


I painted the rims black and am considering some mini moon caps to cover the lugs.

[Shepard]

Fantastic job.

[HBR]

Thanks Shepard. As it typically with my projects, it was frustrating at times but satisfying.

[Shepard]

Why did you remove the front brakes? I used this master cylinder to do front and rear disc brakes. I read you said the front brakes locked up cause the front end was too light. Maybe an adjustable proportion valve could safe the day?
I know when there was only rear wheel brakes, going down steep hills - using the brakes only made it faster.LOL You did a fantastic job with the drum brake setup. I thought about it but was sure what master cylinder to use.


https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylind...ylinder%20(TM1)

[HBR]

Originally Posted by Shepard

Why did you remove the front brakes?

A lot of it had to do with wanting to go back to stock/8" wheels. The 10" rims had the low profile tires on it. Despite all of the suspension components working properly, the ride was pretty rough. Going back to the stock wheels has helped. Not as much as I would have liked, but it is better.

Finding softer shocks could work on the back, but the shock is part of the front suspension, so softening up the front end isn't so easy. I have some ideas on how to tackle it, but likely won't have time for a while.