2011 ezgo txt

[cgtech]

Since this is a 48v, it has the DeltaQ-built Charge port. It has a circuit board inside. That board was probably damaged. Check for power on the small blue wire from the charge port when charger is not plugged in. I would check this before changing Controller.

[txhellraiser]

Originally Posted by yamahaguy97

also, the 3 wires going from the female receptacle (black, white, and thin red). make sure the small red wire Is connected on the F/R assembly. if it comes off the car will not run or charge

I don't have a black, white, and red wire connector. All the wires on the F/R switch are getting power when the switch is in the correct position.

Originally Posted by cgtech

Since this is a 48v, it has the DeltaQ-built Charge port. It has a circuit board inside. That board was probably damaged. Check for power on the small blue wire from the charge port when charger is not plugged in. I would check this before changing Controller.

I have no power to on the blue wire but would that keep the cart from moving? Figured I could remove the whole DeltaQ assembly and the cart would still move?

[txhellraiser]

Originally Posted by bronsonj

Since you were under the seat did you by chance have the run-tow switch turned to tow?

My TXT stopped working and the backup buzzer stopped as well. Turns out it was the run-tow toggle switch... I turned it to tow when I washed it (never got water under the seat though). I put the cart in reverse (key off though) so the buzzer would sound but no movement and then flipped the run tow a few times until I heard the buzzer work.

Once the buzzer buzzed I flipped the key on and the cart worked again.

The cart is in the run position. When the switch is in reverse and I flip the tow/run toggle, I get one single beep from the buzzer. As long as the cart is in reverse, I can flip the toggle back and forth and buzzer will only make one chirp.

[txhellraiser]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Since this is a 48v, it has the DeltaQ-built Charge port. It has a circuit board inside. That board was probably damaged. Check for power on the small blue wire from the charge port when charger is not plugged in. I would check this before changing Controller.

So after using the search function, I've found out that you're really up to par on this DeltaQ system. From reading some of your other posts, I was able to figure out what I think the problem is. I'm guessing when I dropped this charging plug on my external battery, it did in fact fry the circuit board inside. I removed the charging port assembly from the golf afterwards b/c it burnt the ends up pretty good. I wasn't able to OHM any of the wires out after it grounded out either. Anyways, I wasn't aware that the blue wire required 48+ to make the controller work. The whole assembly has been unplugged from the cart since the day I shorted it out. I checked the orange/red wire that the blue wire ties into this morning for 48+ and nothing was there. After work today, I'll cut the blue connector off the charge port and hook it to 48+ and post up my results. See any reason why I couldn't just keep the blue wire hard wired to 48+ at all times? Thanks for the reply.

[txhellraiser]

Guess I can update this thread as fixed. Me grounding out my charging charging outlet caused the internal components to get fried. I took the advice above and hooked 48v+ to the blue wire from my charger outlet and problem is fixed. Now just need to order a new charging harness. Any reason why I couldn't leave this blue wire hooked to 48v+ even once I get the new harness?

[kgsc]

That is the charger interlock to tell the controller that the cart is plugged in and should not go when the pedal is pushed. Your call.

[yurtle]

For carts with reed switches, which serve the same purpose, we bypass them and run the charger cord through the steering wheel. Reed switches are fairly unreliable, while yours was failed due to a physical mistake.

[txhellraiser]

Originally Posted by kgsc

That is the charger interlock to tell the controller that the cart is plugged in and should not go when the pedal is pushed. Your call.

So guessing it wont hurt to leave hooked to 48v+? If not, i'll probably just leave it hooked up.

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[txhellraiser]

Originally Posted by yurtle

For carts with reed switches, which serve the same purpose, we bypass them and run the charger cord through the steering wheel. Reed switches are fairly unreliable, while yours was failed due to a physical mistake.

It was truly my fault the reason it happened. Should have disconnected the positive or negative terminal first. $70 Lesson learned.

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