EZGO Elec - 36v-12v reducer and accessories

[ddeblance]

I've tested all the wired on the key switch and I'll I find is 12v.
My cart is a EZGO PDS. The key switch is a 3 position w/lights.

[TheAspec]

There should be 36 volts in there somewhere, I think it's the green wire if I recall, but don't take my word on that wire color, check with a meter. You should also be able to find switched 36 volts on the F/R switch.

[ddeblance]

Ok, I connected the yellow switched power wire to the positive post on batteries and 13.67 on the meter from the green wire on converter!!!!

Now to hunt for a 36v in the dash....

[TheAspec]

Originally Posted by ddeblance

Ok, I connected the yellow switched power wire to the positive post on batteries and 13.67 on the meter from the green wire on converter!!!!

[ddeblance]

Here is what I'm seeing.

On the key switch...
I'm getting only 12v (pic is middle blue/wht wire)
Lights on is the other blue/wht wire

On the F/R
I see 36v on the middle grey wire with key on or off.
Forward I get 36v on green and grey wire.
Reverse I get 36v on all three wires.


I'm not seeing a 36v that is on only with the key switched on.

That third pic is something I have no idea what it is. It has 36v on it. Any clue?

[JohnnieB]

Be sure to put Run/Tow switch in Tow before disconnecting or reconnecting and wires. Other wise, you might destroy the controller.

On the Keyswitch, disconnect the White and Yellow/White wires.
Put Run/Tow into Run and measure each wire.
The Yellow/White one should have 36V on it and the white one should have zero, but it could be the other way around.
Put Run/Tow back to Tow.

The one with zero volts on it, whatever the color, is the one the converter wire should tie into.

Also, this would be a good time to check Keyswitch.
Connect an Ohmmeter between the terminals you removed the two wires from.
With Keyswitch OFF, it should read open.
With Keyswitch ON and in the LIGHTS positions, it should read a short.
If not, the Keyswitch is bad.

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I'm not 100% sure of this, but the schematic indicates the F/R switch is a Single Pole, Double Thrown, Center off switch. So In F there will be voltage on the Blue wire (Center terminal - looks gray in picture) and on the Green wire. In R there should only be voltage on Gray and Orange wires.

Of course I might be wrong, EZGO schematic leave out subtle details occasionally.

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The round thingy in the third picture is the beeper. One wire (Red) connects to battery side main terminal of the solenoid, so it has voltage 100% of the time.
Rhe other wire connects to the controller,so the controller can yell at you when it wants to.

Covering the opening (On the bottom in the picture) with electrical tape will tone it down a few dB, but don't disconnect it. It does a lot more that just warn you when you are in reverse.

[TheAspec]

The reducer does not care where the 36V is coming from, so using JonnieB's advice all you need to do is find a wire with 36V switched with the key. You can use any wire you wish as long as it's switched.

If for some reason you can't find anything in the key switch or F/R switch I know you can find switched 36V in your solenoid. Hope this helps.

[yurtle]

I don't know if you have lights or not, but my cart came with a two position key switch, so I upgraded to a three position switch, and use the third position as a dedicated 48 volt supply to my reducer.

[ddeblance]

I'm still looking for a 36v switch wire under the dash. But until then I wanted to get this running for Halloween night to I've just ran a wire over and have a quick disconnect.
Yes, my cart has the 3 position switch with lights. But looks like it's 12v there, so good for the stereo!

I still have to follow JohnnieB's instructions. Haven't had the time....


JohnnieB, if the switch is working then.... it's working right? Am I missing something? So I need to check it?

Yes, I would like to tone down that reverse beeper up a bit. It's loud! Now that I know where it is I can muffle it.

[yurtle]

I know you're wanting to get 'er running for Halloween, so save this for later.

If your key switch has two separate circuits, which you'll have to confirm with a DMM, then you can move your lights onto the reducer, and use the newly "liberated" two prongs on the key switch to turn on your reducer.

Now your switch will be off, on, on with accessories. You'll have to provide a 12 volt fuse block and switches for any accessories.

Hopefully your reducer has a separate power and "remote on/off" wires. If so, simply run power from your battery pack, to a fuse, to the key switch, then to your reducer.

If your reducer only has a power wire, you'll need to use a relay, to protect the key switch.