DCS solenoid non-activation saga continues

[SolarRat]

As I wrote in the other post, the controllers job is to apply ground to the solenoid, and that is not happening:

Originally Posted by SolarRat

...
In the schematic kgsc posted, it looks like the blue wire going to one of the small posts should be the ground, activated by the controller? I'd start by removing that wire and ground the post (to B-) to see if the solenoid activates. If it does you might have a bad controller, the controller itself is not properly grounded, or the controller is not getting the signal from wherever to ground that wire...

You now say the reverse buzzer beeps when the throttle is pressed, so the controller is able to ground pin 3 but not pin 7. I'd be tempted to just attach pin 3 to the solenoid negative, but...that would be a bush fix...there has to be something else wrong so don't do that.

Is this all factory wiring?
Is the reverse buzzer steady or is it actually beeping an error code?
Is the tow/run circuit going to pins 9 and 10 working correctly?

[Komodo1982]

Thanks for all the steps fellas. I'll get some more troubleshooting in tomorrow night and report back my results

[Komodo1982]

Ok Fellas heres what I have,

SolarRat:
The wiring appears to be factory, the beeping is a beep-beep-beep (continuous) and the Run/Tow circuit between Pin 9/10 as well as the Run Tow Switch OHM out.

Radioman:
Yes im getting 37.4VDC on Pin 10

I checked the entire solenoid activation circuit (in red) on the diagram and it all checks good. I also checked all PINs on the controller with the Key On, Pedal up, In FWD and in Run/Tow in Run.

1. .5vdc
2. 14vdc
3. Ovdc, but probably because the beeper is going on-off-on-off
4. 37.4 VDC
5. Ovdc
6. 37.4VDC
7. 0vdc
8. Blank
9. 37.4vdc
10. 37.4vdc

I was gonna go pull the "rebuilt" 1206SX out and pop to cover to see if anything is damaged that was missed during the repair but there is a void warranty sticker on it now.

Any thoughts where to go next?

[kgsc]

7 being 0 tells me that the controller has grounded that pin or the wire between it and the solenoid is bad. It should have pack voltage until the pedal is pushed. 5 will also have 0 until the pedal is pushed.

[SolarRat]

0v just tells me there is no voltage, not that it is grounded. I think you mean B-, but make sure it is B- by testing it to B+. If pin 7 is B-, the solenoid should be clicking...check the blue wire for an open.

The controller shouldn't be grounding pin 3 unless the cart is in reverse. Voltage at pin 4 tells me (and the controller) that you are in reverse...Is there a problem with the Fwd/Rev switch? I'd disconnect pin 4 and see if that B+ coming from the wire or controller side. Maybe even try some tests with that orange wire disconnected.

[kgsc]

On pin 7? Until the controller activates it there should be pack voltage through the solenoid coil. If 6 has voltage and 7 doesn’t it is either a bad solenoid or wiring.

[SolarRat]

Yes, you are correct, sorry for the confusion. That is what I mean by 0v doesnt tell me anything. If it was actually B-, the solenoid would be triggered. He said earlier he has B+ at both small solenoid terminals, so pin 7 should have B+ with key on pedal up, IF the blue wire circuit is good. He also said grounding that blue wire makes the solenoid click. We've been talking about checking that blue wire for two threads now, so I have to assume he's checked the circuit over and over...if not we are wasting our time. I'd like to see test results with pedal down, and also against B+ to see what the controller is actually grounding.

Anyway...I think figuring out why there is B+ on pin 4 will go a long way in solving the problem.

[radioman]

Try this. If both small post on the solenoid have voltage and pin 7 don't something is wrong.

[Komodo1982]

SolarRat/kgsc/radioman,
The readings I took last night were each pin to the battery pack negative post

ALSO I havent mentioned it before, but I only have a precharge resistor between the solenoid large terminals and a diode between the small terminals. there is no diode board on the cart and no diode between the large terminals.


below are the readings taken to B- on the controller with the key on, in FWD and pedal down.

1. 1.6
2. 13.8
3. 0
4. .2
5. 37.4
6. 0
7. 37.3
9. 32
10 37.3

Next is taken from B- on the controller with the key on, in FWD but with pedal up.

1. 5.1
2. 8.4
3. 0
4. 5.6
5. 5.6
6. 32
7. 0
9. 0
10. 32

below are the readings taken to B+ on the controller with the key on, in FWD and pedal down.

1. 1.6
2. 13.8
3. 0
4. .0
5. 37.4
6. 37.4
7. 37.4
9. 37.4
10. 37.4

Next is taken from B+ on the controller with the key on, in FWD but with pedal up.

1. 37
2. 23
3. 0
4. 37
5. 37
6. 0
7. 0
9. 0
10. 0

Also I have checked Pin 7 to the small terminal on the solenoid and it has continuity

Then I disconnected Pin 7 from the connector to see if the wire or Pin 7 on the controller was getting the voltage and it is in fact the wire and not the pin.

Then with Pin 7 disconnected, key on in fwd I get the below

pedal up: Blue wire to B+ = 0v
pedal down: Blue wire to B+ = 37.5v

pedal up: Blue wire to B- = 37.5
pedal down: Blue wire to B- = 37.5

Originally Posted by SolarRat

0v just tells me there is no voltage, not that it is grounded. I think you mean B-, but make sure it is B- by testing it to B+. If pin 7 is B-, the solenoid should be clicking...check the blue wire for an open.

The controller shouldn't be grounding pin 3 unless the cart is in reverse. Voltage at pin 4 tells me (and the controller) that you are in reverse...Is there a problem with the Fwd/Rev switch? I'd disconnect pin 4 and see if that B+ coming from the wire or controller side. Maybe even try some tests with that orange wire disconnected.

[radioman]

Are you sure you have the correct pedal microswitch? The correct switch should have a normal closed contact at rest but held open by the pedal cam. When the pedal is pressed the switch lever falls off to normal (closed).