Bad starter armature? Need 2nd opinion.

[kimmer71]

This was a non running cart when I got it. This one is for a friends kid. The starter/gen was not working at all. Tested the starter on a bench and nothing. Inspected the brushes and they were shot. The contact surface on the armature looked pretty bad too. I replaced the brushes and the unit would work but was weak. It had a difficult time turning the engine over. I would have to try 2 or 3 times to get it to turn the engine. Sometimes I would have to manually rotate the engine past the compression stroke to give it enough of a head start.

1 week later and the starter wont turn at all. The battery is good, a little low on charge but its a brand new optima (yellow top) deep cell. I suspect the starter ate the brushes and the armature is shot right?

I'm working on a used unit form a forum member. I can't find a new unit for less than $250. Anyone know why is the CCW unit is about $100 cheaper than the CW unit? Also, anyone ever "rig" up an automotive 2 part system with a separate starter and alternator? Just curious.

Thanks.

[bioniccartsandcustoms]

I would pull the inspection plugs out and check the brushes. If they are shot again, then the armature was in such bad shape it ate'em uo. Did you replace the bearing when you replaced the brushes? Also, check all your connections, it does sound a little like a low voltage condition. Put a charger on the battery and see if that helps.

[pbillyi69]

i still have the one off of my 91 flathead if you need one. send me a pm...

[lockman1]

Note: I found this problem with my cart (2007) if the S/G belt is too tight!

Just for s#!ts & giggles... loosen the belt a little!

Just a suggestion!

[kimmer71]

Fully charged the battery yesterday and nothing. It won't even try to move. I'm going to replace it.

[invalidsession]

Originally Posted by kimmer71

Fully charged the battery yesterday and nothing. It won't even try to move. I'm going to replace it.

Could you perhaps take the armature to a local machinist and have them skim the brush contact area for you ? carefully clean out the insulated areas and you might just be in business. This used to be one of my my jobs during my Engineering apprenticeship and it used to work 95% of the time. Cheap as well so may be worth a try.

Chris.

[DOOmsman]

Originally Posted by invalidsession

Could you perhaps take the armature to a local machinist and have them skim the brush contact area for you ? carefully clean out the insulated areas and you might just be in business. This used to be one of my my jobs during my Engineering apprenticeship and it used to work 95% of the time. Cheap as well so may be worth a try.

Chris.

Should be a rebuilder near you have them cut and re groove the armature.

[kimmer71]

Originally Posted by DOOmsman

Should be a rebuilder near you have them cut and re groove the armature.

No s#!t?!

I didn't know that could be done. Any guesses on what that would cost? How the heck do I find someone that can do it?

[crash12888]

Check your local yellow pages for Alternator repair shops although they may want to do a complete rebuild on it to cover their tail.

You can do it yourself, check with our sponsors and get bearings and brushes.

It is very easy to disassemble, here is the backyard repair for it.

Take it apart, remove the old bearings and install the new ones in the front and rear caps.
Put one of the old bearings in a vise, chuck up one end of your armature in a 1/2" drill, install the other end in the bearing in the vise.
Have a friend spin the armature with the drill while you use a very fine flat file and light pressure to dress the contact area.
It will clean up before your eyes!
Blow it out, replace brushes and reassemble.
Piece of cake.........and there's nothing better than keeping your money in your own pocket!

[invalidsession]

Originally Posted by kimmer71

No s#!t?!

I didn't know that could be done. Any guesses on what that would cost? How the heck do I find someone that can do it?

Although the "crash" method should work, to do it properly you just need someone with a lathe. Pop the assembly between the chuck and tail stock and give the contact a couple of quick passes with a cutting tool. Finish it off with some emery cloth, scrape out the removed copper from between the contacts and hey presto, like new armature.
I can't imagine it would cost more than $10 at a local machine shop or NAPA.

Chris.