MY Melex 212 Before and After

[MELEXconVERSION]

Live axle issues: I ran across a guy that sells these sprag clutches for wheel mounts and eliminates turning issues. I didn't know what it was until he explained it. If I had known about these in the beginning it may have been very useful. Of course, if I was a better welder then maybe I could make a frame for an axle with a differential, etc. At this point it, I think it would take more money to change my axle set up versus go with a sprag sprocket. Here is a picture from the website, http://www.staton-inc.com/store/inde...roduct&id=2027.

[dundeebarnbuggy]

Sprags, usually only work one way. You will have positive traction going forward [both wheels] and nothing in reverse. ALSO, unless you have brakes at the wheels, NO brakes.

[MELEXconVERSION]

Originally Posted by dundeebarnbuggy

Sprags, usually only work one way. You will have positive traction going forward [both wheels] and nothing in reverse. ALSO, unless you have brakes at the wheels, NO brakes.

Valid points. The brake issue was a big deterrent for me as I already have a brake on the axle, and not real excited to reconfigure all of that.

[dundeebarnbuggy]

For a chain guide, see if you can hork one off a dirt bike or a little race quad. You will need a guide for the same number chain as you are using. A little strap iron and some high density plastic and you could fab one but it is easier to get one already made. If you are set on a live axle and a fixed motor, you need to build a swingarm style suspension for the rear axle. The pivot point needs to be right behind the motor. Look at race quads or motorbikes for a visual. That way the shaft centers stay the same distance apart and chain stays tight. Keep us posted.

[MELEXconVERSION]

I believe I have a semi functional swinging arm, but didn't realize that is what it was. I installed make shift torsion bar with heim bolts and rod to reduce axle wrap. However, the torsion bars are on the outide where the leaf springs are located. I had originally thought of using pillow blocks to hhang my engine frame from. What I could do is get 2 pillow blocks and attach the them with steel and pivot them of the engine mounting frome. Good points, let me know what you think. Here is a pic of my torsion bars and my original engine fram

[MELEXconVERSION]

That second picture is my original engine frame idea. I didn't end up going that route bc i was afraid of overloading the axle with weight. However, your point is spot on about the swing arm and my torsion bars probably won't hack it. I think i can attach some pillow blocks and then use pinion bolts with Lowes metal to make a pivoting swing arm off the axle.

I may draw a picture and post it on here if that is helpful.

[dundeebarnbuggy]

Now you are on a better track. What diameter and grade is is your axle shaft? Also since you will have 2 competing arcs of travel with the springs and the engine cradle you will have to devise a sort of double link or sliding pivot in front of the engine to allow it to move without binding.

[MELEXconVERSION]

Originally Posted by dundeebarnbuggy

Now you are on a better track. What diameter and grade is is your axle shaft? Also since you will have 2 competing arcs of travel with the springs and the engine cradle you will have to devise a sort of double link or sliding pivot in front of the engine to allow it to move without binding.

I think I am following you. However, at this point I am going to stick with the static engine frame and mount, BUT I like the idea of a swing arm. I plan to get afew more pillow blocks and use pinon bolts to keep the axle and engine true to each other.

The axle is a 1 inch, 54" long AZUSA flex proof axle. Here is a diagram I drew of the swing arm.

[scottyb]

This works well.

[dundeebarnbuggy]

Exactly what you need! Beautiful work Scotty! The only thing is you will put pillow block bearings instead of U bolts at the axle.