My 2PG Rebuild with pics

[MICKEYMOTORMOUNT]

Thanks for the kind words Dabble.

As for the engagement, I am not sure what it should be. You can always shim the spring in the clutch. I have read here somewhere that you can use a 1-1/8" diameter washer to shim the spring. That will allow it to engage a little later. Sounds reasonable though I have never personally tried it. Once I get this thing together, I may try it if I feel I need a little low end grunt.

[MICKEYMOTORMOUNT]

Ok guys, here's an update. I just picked up this gem off Craigslist for $70. Figure I needed it for the clutch parts along with my other cart that has a 3PG in it. It's a 1990.









So after disassembling the clutch, I noticed some major differences between the one from my 2PG and this one on the 3PG.



Left and right handed threads along with different size threads and shoulders where the movable sheave bushing rides.







The right handed thread is 1-1/4" while the left handed is 1-3/8". The shoulder or shank where the bushing rides is 1-1/2" and 1-5/8" respectively.






That also means that the bushings are different as well. I have seen them for sale but no indication of size differences. There are some other minor differences, like no model number on the cover even though the patent number is unchanged and there. Also, this one had one thrust washer while the '88 had 2.





Some other things are the same. The cam arms(weights) and springs are the same. The arms are labeled EZ-1. Both springs are yellow.

[MICKEYMOTORMOUNT]

Hopefully I didn't steer any of you prospective clutch disassemblers wrong by telling you to remove the spider in the clockwise direction in previous posts. That only applies to the left handed thread types.

The left handed thread type also had roll pins which had to be driven out before spider removal while the right handed type did not. Not sure if that is the general rule to determine which is left or right handed thread. Maybe the general rule is the size of the shoulder or shank where the movable sheave bushing rides.

Just want to say that before you disassemble your clutch, try to determine which handed thread you have by looking at the threads(if any) exposed above the spider. If none are exposed, try to measure the shoulder to determine what thread you have.

[MICKEYMOTORMOUNT]

While waiting on some much needed clutch parts, I figured I would dive into rebuilding the fuel pump. It's the standard 2-1/16" diameter pulse type made by Mikuni.







Prior to disassembly, I put alignment marks on the pieces so it will go back together the way it came apart.







A little scrub to inspect prior to disassembly.





Here's what you'll find when you open it up.





Pump body with wafer check valves. No magic here, just simple engineering.






Parts cleaned and ready for assembly. I like to use a small wire brush to clean the parts so as not to damage the small rib that runs on some of the surfaces. If you use a razor blade, be careful not to damage the rib.


Check wafer mating surfaces on pump body. Make sure there are no defects in the surface as this will affect wafer seal during pulse/vacuum cycles. This is the heart of the pump. The better the surfaces, the more efficient the pump will be.





Wafer and grommet assembly. A small finish nail, a drop of oil and a little patience are your friends here. Install the DULLED tip of the nail into the grommet. Place a drop of oil on the end of the grommet, and using the nail, push the grommet into the wafer and then into the pump body.






With the pump body assembled, we can now move onto the cover assemblies.

Some rebuild kits will come with 4 gaskets, others will have 2.

If you have only 2 gaskets, they will go directly onto the covers while the plastic wafer will go towards the pump body.
If you have 4 gaskets, 2 will go towards the covers and the other 2 towards the pump body with the wafers in between the two.

The original setup had paper and rubber gaskets with the paper going towards the covers and the rubbers going against the pump body.






Paper gasket placed against cover. Old gasket and wafer in foreground used as a reference.







Almost done. Here the final cover is ready to be installed. 2 bolts are already installed to maintain alignment of body, cover, wafer and gaskets.

During the assembly procedure, verify proper orientation of the pieces by lining up your alignment marks prior to screw installation.





Finally done.

[dirtyyoda77]

your write ups are the best keep them coming

[MICKEYMOTORMOUNT]

Originally Posted by dirtyyoda77

your write ups are the best keep them coming

Thanks. The write-ups will be coming in dribs and drabs while waiting for parts and/or inspiration.

[ptmtp26]

This is the best post I've seen. I feel like I'm rehabbing it with you. Keep it up! [emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MICKEYMOTORMOUNT]

Originally Posted by ptmtp26

This is the best post I've seen. I feel like I'm rehabbing it with you. Keep it up! [emoji106]

Thanks for the replies and kudos guys.

[MICKEYMOTORMOUNT]

While waiting on more parts for the clutch, I figured I'd let you guys see where I'm at to date.

I've been doing alot of homework on these clutches to try to answer some questions about the differences between the 2.






We'll start with the disassembly of the 2 clutches. I really only need one clutch but figured while I was at it, I might as well do the other one in case I need it in the future.


Tools needed for the job.






Here are the sheaves as they were left.


Notice the direction the cam arm pivot pins are installed. They are opposite between the 2 sheaves. This will be covered later.






Using a flat bladed screwdriver, pry out the roll pins as far as they will go. A little oil helps here. If they are stuck, tap in with a hammer to get them moving and then pry them out the other way. A little oil helps here.





Then get your trusty vice grips(with good teeth) to pull it out. A slight twisting motion back and forth helps get them out.
If yours are really stuck, you can always use the trusty dremel tool to cut the ends of the roll pins off to get the pivot pin out.




Roll pins kind of unusable after removal. Since I have new hardware, this is a non-issue.





Before removing the all the cam arm pivot pins, mark at least one tower with an arrow to show the direction of installation. I will cover the reason for this shortly.











Here's what you'll find when the pivot pin comes out.



Marking is clearly visible on side of weight.






Holes slightly egged out. Not too bad. Might still be usable, but..............







A quick trip to the wire wheel to clean before inspection.






...........Ooooh boy, that can't be good. Uneven wear on the cam arm face.






The rest of the cam arms showing moderate to severe wear.





The sheave and corresponding weights on the right show sustained high speed wear. Looks like this ol' girl has seen some cruisin'.




New parts for the rebuilding process.

[MICKEYMOTORMOUNT]

Time to cover the subjects I said I would cover later.

Before I do, remember the pic of the stationary sheaves upon disassembly? If not, here it is.


I was wondering why there were left and right handed threads. So it got me thinking rotational direction of the clutches. Since 1989 was a transitional year from the 2PG to the 3PG engine configuration, I thought something must have changed when they changed the orientation of the engine. Since I don't have the carts near me, (85 miles away) it's time to let my fingers do the walking on the web.

After what seemed like countless hours looking for the rotational direction of the 2 engines, I thought what about the wiring diagram? If the rotational direction of the engine has changed, it will show up there.

Here's the diagrams:

Up to and including 1988 with the 2PG engine:




Look at the later 1990 diagram on the bottom of this page. This shows the 3PG engine:




The difference lies how the starter-generator is wired. The wires from A1/A2 on the starter generator are flip-flopped where they go to the Forward/ Reverse switch. Later 1990 year A1 goes to terminal D on the F/R switch and A2 goes to terminal B. 1988 and below years shows the opposite, with A1 going to terminal B of the F/R switch and A2 going to terminal D. That means the engine rotation has changed between the 2 engines for the forward/reverse direction of the cart.

So what, right? Well back to school. Sir Isaac Newton's third law of motion states: "for every action (force) in nature there is an equal and opposite reaction".

That being said, we also have inertial forces at play here. So...............

1) If the 2PG engine spins clockwise when viewed on the clutch side of the engine, that means inertial forces during acceleration would want to spin the clutch in an equal and opposite direction according to Newton. If the threads were right handed, that would spin the clutch off of the end of the crankshaft. Thus the reason for the left handed threads on the 2PG fixed clutch sheave.

2)Since we now know the 3PG engine direction is opposite that of the 2PG for any particular cart direction, the 3PG spins counter clockwise meaning the clutch would want to spin off of the crank end in a clockwise direction. Since it has right handed threads, the inertial forces want to tighten the clutch on rather than loosen it.

Of course, the above 2 statements apply only in the forward direction of the cart. Reverse would exert the same amount of force on the clutch in the opposite direction, but, since nobody really drives their cart around in reverse it's kind of a non issue. Hence the Loctite 271 to keep the clutch from coming off the end of the crank while in reverse.

So, going back to one of my previous posts, clutch spider removal depends on engine rotation. Whichever way the engine rotates in the forward direction of the cart when viewed from the clutch end, removal of the clutch spider will be in the same direction as forward engine rotation.



Now onto the cam arm pivot pins: Installed in opposite directions.



The same reason for the opposite installation follows what we just covered with opposite engine rotation. As the engine accelerates in forward direction, the cam arm pivot pins are pushed against the heads and not the roll pins.










So for now, class is dismissed. Waiting on new weights and a cover seal and then we will convene for clutch assembly.