48v G29 burning up stereos. Can you troubleshoot?

[Kwick66]

Hello All,
New to the forum here.

I recently purchased a 2011 G29 48v with 6 new 8v Trojan batteries.
This cart already has a 48/12v reducer which was used to power the headlights/taillights.

I am trying to install a simple Amazon bluetooth stereo (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1),
which I have previously done to my older 2009 G29 with 4 12v batteries, with success.

The first stereo that I tried to install, kept burning up the inline fuse. The second stereo powered up for about 5 seconds and is now not working- No fuses sacrificed, and no smell of a burned up unit.

Using the Positive and Negative 12 volt wires from the Reducer output, I've installed a fuse block with both Positive and Negative buss bars. Volt meter is showing that the + and - posts from the fuse block buss bars are producing 13.6 volts.

I've tied in some LED lights to this fuse block, and they work just fine.
Any ideas why the radios keep getting damaged?
Too much voltage, floating ground issues, reverse polarity, power through the ground...???

The radio has a small amp, that I had zip tied to the carts frame at rear shock tower. This exact same setup worked just fine in my previous 48v G29 cart which had 4-12v batteries.

I am stumped.

[Tha_B_Man]

Can you post a few pics???


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[kgsc]

Might be getting voltage through the frame

[Kwick66]

Originally Posted by kgsc

Might be getting voltage through the frame

That thought crossed my mind. Is it possible that the amp being zip tied to the frame, is causing the issue? The amp has plastic end caps that are larger than the body of the amp, those touch the frame- acting as an insulator. The aluminum body does not come in contact with any metal.

[Kwick66]

So, no voltage through the frame. Thats not it.
Checked the voltage from the + and - output wires from the reducer, and it is right around 13.6 volts.

When I check the voltage from: the VR's + output wire and the battery ground post, I get 49 volts.... What gives?
Note- I did pull the reading from the correct battery in the series.

Anyone...?

[kgsc]

The case of the radio or amp may ground to the frame through its case and if you see 49 volts to pack negative that would explain a few things. Maybe one of your lights is grounded to the frame..

[Kwick66]

Originally Posted by kgsc

The case of the radio or amp may ground to the frame through its case and if you see 49 volts to pack negative that would explain a few things. Maybe one of your lights is grounded to the frame..

I considered this as well. The end caps of the amp are plastic and are slightly larger diameter than the body of the amp. So when it was attached to the golf cart frame, the plastic end caps would act as an insulator since only they came into contact with the chassis.

All lighting on the cart is 2 wire, and I haven't yet seen anything tapped into the chassis as a ground. Its possible, but I haven't discovered that yet.

Its just bizarre that when I hooked some LED lights to the VR and fuse box, they work fine. Yet it has fried 2 stereos. Maybe a bad chinese shipment of stereos, but i doubt it.

[fsu1tm]

Originally Posted by Kwick66

When I check the voltage from: the VR's + output wire and the battery ground post, I get 49 volts

You shouldn't be checking voltage from the voltage reducer output + to pack -. You should check from VR output + to VR output -. You haven't tied your pack - to your VR output -, have you?

[Kwick66]

Originally Posted by fsu1tm

You shouldn't be checking voltage from the voltage reducer output + to pack -. You should check from VR output + to VR output -. You haven't tied your pack - to your VR output -, have you?

I am exploring all options, is why I metered VR + to pack -

VR + and - outputs produce 13.6 v

And no... I have not tied VR output leads to the battery pack.

[fsu1tm]

Originally Posted by Kwick66

And no... I have not tied VR output leads to the battery pack.

Sorry. Had to ask. If the voltage on the input wires to your amp are 13.6V and that is within the tolerance of the amp, then all should be good. One more question though. Have you tried to power the amp without any speakers connected. Speakers of the wrong impedance, I believe, can cause an amp to draw more power. Disconnect the speakers, apply power to the amp, and if it doesn't blow, try then connecting speakers one by one and see if this helps you isolate.