how to put on a voltage limiter

[ATV-RVr]

I had the same question on what I called a voltage reducer. Look for the thread named "how to wire a Voltage Reducer" (just a day or two ago). I posted a picture of the one I was dealing with. See if it is like yours...if so the great folks here on BGW had the answers for me
Hope this helps
ATV-RVr

[OLD MEC]

BOOMERS 417 You need to put first a inline fuse close to battery pack tap, then correct size wiring for amp input and output, then a switch rated for voltage and more importantly for maximium amperage draw of reducer when in operation. ( Example 36 volts at 25 amps draw would need minumum 12 guage auto wiring ) "I used 10 guage when wiring for my 12 volt battery" with a 25 amp circuit breaker feeding a fuse panel with fuses sized for each load. Remember that most of us cart owners keep adding stuff to 12 volt battery or 36-48 volt to 12 volt reducer ( radio, stereo, lights, horn, turn signals, overhead fan, under lighting, etc ) Then to protect each circuit either in line fuses or better yet a fuse panel with 2-6 taps with a "common ground lug" for all circuits. Remember that nothing is grounded to frame or body on any electric golf cart.
In my own case I went with an extra HD 48 volt solenoid with 5 amp fuse from key switch and added correct diode to protect solid state controller, that was switched on by regular key switch to isolate all 12 volt battery feeds and in my case so my wife wouldnt forget to turn switch off when not in use "MAYBE ME TOO"?
HOPE THIS HELPS?

[Boomers417]

Originally Posted by OLD MEC

BOOMERS 417 You need to put first a inline fuse close to battery pack tap, then correct size wiring for amp input and output, then a switch rated for voltage and more importantly for maximium amperage draw of reducer when in operation. ( Example 36 volts at 25 amps draw would need minumum 12 guage auto wiring ) "I used 10 guage when wiring for my 12 volt battery" with a 25 amp circuit breaker feeding a fuse panel with fuses sized for each load. Remember that most of us cart owners keep adding stuff to 12 volt battery or 36-48 volt to 12 volt reducer ( radio, stereo, lights, horn, turn signals, overhead fan, under lighting, etc ) Then to protect each circuit either in line fuses or better yet a fuse panel with 2-6 taps with a "common ground lug" for all circuits. Remember that nothing is grounded to frame or body on any electric golf cart.
In my own case I went with an extra HD 48 volt solenoid with 5 amp fuse from key switch and added correct diode to protect solid state controller, that was switched on by regular key switch to isolate all 12 volt battery feeds and in my case so my wife wouldnt forget to turn switch off when not in use "MAYBE ME TOO"?
HOPE THIS HELPS?

OLD MEC, Thanks for the reply. I think I got done pretty much everything you mention but let me detail it real quick to make sure it sounds safe:

I have the big silver epoxy filled 36/48 to 12V reducer box rated at 25A. It does have an input fuse on the positive side which connects directly to the positive side of my pack. The black input side connects directly to the neg side of my pack.

On the output side of the VR one wire goes directly to power a fuse block which my lights plug into. The other VR output wire goes to my switch that allows the fuse block to be powered on/off including my lights now and soon other accessories.

I have used the correct wire guage and maybe even overkilled that with a bit thicker wire than required. Switch is rated for the 12V on the output side of VR.

Does a little spark on the positive side pack hookup to the positive VR cause for any concern? Im thinking normal as there is power going straight into the VR but then is terminated at the block. Does that sound safe? Im not a sparky guy guy so I throw the question out. Dont want to happen to me what happened to that other poor fellow whos new car and shed burnt down due to no switch and a short from the VR.

Also should I reconnect battery pack to cart starting from negative side or positive side first? I forgot been away from project 6 months!

Thanks

[OLD MEC]

As I understand from your last post you ( still ) have 36 to 48 volts direct power from your battery pack to voltage reducer? This means that voltage reducer is "POWERED ALL THE TIME" which could possibly cause what happened to my neighbor? You need to place the switch between the wire coming from battery pack plus terminal and the voltage reducer. You now are only breaking 12 volts from voltage reducer to your fuse panel and NOT CUTTING POWER TO VOLTAGE REDUCER.

[Boomers417]

Thanks OLD MEC! I thought I had it wrong. Can you link me to a switch that would work? I spent an hour at Radio Shack and they didnt have anything near 48V DC. They had over 48V in AC but that wont help me. I'll just order one online if someone can link me to it.

THANK A MILLION $$ :thum bup:: thumbup:

[OLD MEC]

Look at following link for HD toggle switches rated for up to 50 amps
http:www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d131.html

[Boomers417]

Thanks for the link OLD MEC!
The link says 50 amp but doesn't specify voltage. Only says low voltage. Does it need to handle 48 volts or does the 50 amp make it strong enough?

Thanks

[OLD MEC]

I would check with them to confirm that it can handle 48 volts and 50 amps DC current maximum? I would think that its more than heavy enough but only the manufacturer rep can say for sure? They should be the last word.

[Boomers417]

As an FYI. I called the guy at that link for the voltage regulator switch OLDMEC posted and he said no problem using it for our VR at 48V.
I should be getting mine tomorrow so I can finally wrap up this long delayed project....

[Phil J]

Boomers417 how did your install go? I also ordered the same switch that you did and will be installing voltage converter 48 to 12 volt 25 amp. Thanks OLD MEC for the info. I am just a little concerned about the 12 volt switch not being 48 volt but I am pretty lame when it comes to detailed info on electrical. I feel much better on mechanical stuff.

Thanks Phil Link to switch http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d131.html