96' replaced obc, speed control still no go!

[Dunecruisin]

Yes the new controller is for a series also

[scottyb]

SOooo ..... It runs with the solenoid jumpered?

[Dunecruisin]

Originally Posted by scottyb

SOooo ..... It runs with the solenoid jumpered?

Yes runs perfect with the two big soleniod posts jumped together

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by Dunecruisin

Yes runs perfect with the two big soleniod posts jumped together

Ok here we go...... The problem may not be with the solenoid, but with the activation circuit of the solenoid... Get a multimeter and put it on DC200V and let's begin.... Put the negative lead on the small yellow post of the solenoid and the positive lead on the large red post of the solenoid. You should see full battery voltage. If not, the OBC is not grounding the solenoid and it is either not properly hooked up, or it's bad. If you do see voltage here, let's proceed... Take the red lead of the multimeter and put it on the other small post, opposite the yellow wire. Put the negative lead on the B- Post of the controller (The one with the black OBC wire) Get someone to help you while you hold the leads in place. Put the car in forward or reverse, turn on the key, and depress the pedal. As soon as the pedal micro clicks, you should see full battery voltage. If you do... Replace solenoid, If you don't you're going to have to find out what is broken in this circuit. It's either A. Bad keyswitch, B. Bad pedal Microswitch, C. Bad F&R Switch Microswitch, or D. A broken wire somewhere in the circuit. Let me know if you need any more help. You're more than welcome to call me if you want. Just send me a PM and I'll call you and walk you through the whole thing.

[Dunecruisin]

Awsome thanks for the reply I will try this tonight and let you know the outcome!!!

[Dunecruisin]

Ok I did both tests and the first one work perfect I placed the negative lead on the yellow wire post of the solenoid and the positve lead to the large positive post of the solenoid and I got 49.6 volts.

Moved onto the second test and placed the positive lead onto the opposite post to the yellow solenoid post and then the negative lead to the B- post of the controller and pressed the pedal and I got a reading of 49.6 volts so... I replaced the solenoid with a new one straight from the store shelf and performed the same tests and the results were the same.

Whats next???

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by Dunecruisin

Ok I did both tests and the first one work perfect I placed the negative lead on the yellow wire post of the solenoid and the positve lead to the large positive post of the solenoid and I got 49.6 volts.

Moved onto the second test and placed the positive lead onto the opposite post to the yellow solenoid post and then the negative lead to the B- post of the controller and pressed the pedal and I got a reading of 49.6 volts so... I replaced the solenoid with a new one straight from the store shelf and performed the same tests and the results were the same.

Whats next???

It's possible that a new solenoid could be bad. If you've got power at both posts there is no reason why the solenoid should not click.

[Dunecruisin]

I put the old obc back in today and the car will go forward and reverse but not charge, so the solenoid works great. I'm freaking stumped???How do I get ahold of you Dawg?

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by Dunecruisin

I put the old obc back in today and the car will go forward and reverse but not charge, so the solenoid works great. I'm freaking stumped???How do I get ahold of you Dawg?

PM Sent

[shadowman]

if the cart will run with the bad OBC but not charge you can open the charger and bypass the low voltage sensor and charger will work it just won,t shut off you,ll have to keep track of charging..........................