mystery voltage draw

1983 36v club car ds
having a problem with a mystery voltage draw & slow forward speed

the facts
new f/r switch
new solenoids (5) tested good
new micro switches (6) tested good
6 volt batteries (6) tested good

cart runs full speed in reverse
half speed in forward

after full charge .. 38.3 v
will drain down to 34v over night
disconnected all meters and 12v power acc...
still drains over night
here is the strange thing i found
key off
checking for voltage at the solenoids
0 volts in neutral
0 volts in reverse
1.1 volts in forward
(see attachment)

i am stumped !!!!

[Sergio]

I guess you probably know you have the FNR wired wrong due to the 1/2 speed in forward vs full in reverse.

That is also causing the reverse buzzer to be wired in series with the field coil between +48v and +24v when the FNR is in forward.

You can disconnect the reverse buzzer for testing and your mystery voltage should go away.

Originally Posted by Sergio

I guess you probably know you have the FNR wired wrong due to the 1/2 speed in forward vs full in reverse.

That is also causing the reverse buzzer to be wired in series with the field coil between +48v and +24v when the FNR is in forward.

You can disconnect the reverse buzzer for testing and your mystery voltage should go away.

i will triple check the f/r wiring ... but it is not wired for 1/2 speed reverse its full power both forward and reverse

sadly there is no reverse buzzer

[jjance]

The only thing on a golf cart that would drain the batteries dead overnight would be the motor not wired correctly. To verify this feel the motor after a period of no use and see if it's hot.

Originally Posted by jjance

The only thing on a golf cart that would drain the batteries dead overnight would be the motor not wired correctly. To verify this feel the motor after a period of no use and see if it's hot.

i will go feel it at 11 pm when i do my rounds ...

[jakesnake27]

I had my first experience with one of these old carts last summer and was extremely pleased with how easy it was to work on. I would just double check all the wires to insure it is wired correctly...

[rib33024]

I found the go pedal was not returning to zero, and it was running the batteries low

[jakesnake27]

Originally Posted by rib33024

I found the go pedal was not returning to zero, and it was running the batteries low

Great point; make sure all five solenoids click when the pedal is depressed, and that they all 'unclick' when released. The first one does not produce motion, the next four do

Originally Posted by jakesnake27

Great point; make sure all five solenoids click when the pedal is depressed, and that they all 'unclick' when released. The first one does not produce motion, the next four do

Originally Posted by rib33024

I found the go pedal was not returning to zero, and it was running the batteries low

applied 36v to each solenoid and they all clicked and unclicked

i did hear all five solenoids click in with a test run .. would that mean all are unclicking ?.. if one is open i would not here it click ?

edit : no volts in reverse ... if pedal was engaged i would see volts ???

[jakesnake27]

I know a solenoid can click and still be bad, but I think they usually fail in the open position.