2006 PDS stopped suddenly and wont go

[Podad]

I have an 06 PDS that has been lifted but has not had the proper size controller, cables, etc installed yet.

I looked at the troubleshooting guide above and did the routine listed.
I have the rear wheels lifted and the machine on blocks.

I have 37.3 volts at the batteries..... I have 37.3 volts on the battery side of the solenoid......... I have 36.7 volts on the controller side of the solenoid...... When I put the key switch on and have the selector in forward the solenoid will click when I depress the pedal slightly. The controller side then has 37.3 volts.

If I depress the pedal any further the solenoid drops out.

Is my controller bad ?? Would it have died suddenly with no warning just driving along?

[JohnnieB]

Welcome to BGW!

First, charge the batteries.
37.3V is only about 75% State of Charge.
That is enough for cart to work, but the plates sulfate when batteries set partially discharged

The solenoid clicking when the pedal is pushed slightly, but drops out when pedal is pushed further can be caused by several things, so check them out before replacing the controller.

Try putting controller in diagnostic mode. It might tell you where to look
Here is the cover label in an easier to read format.
How to get into diagnostic mode is spelled out at the bottom of label.

[Podad]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Welcome to BGW!

First, charge the batteries.
37.3V is only about 75% State of Charge.
That is enough for cart to work, but the plates sulfate when batteries set partially discharged

The solenoid clicking when the pedal is pushed slightly, but drops out when pedal is pushed further can be caused by several things, so check them out before replacing the controller.

Try putting controller in diagnostic mode. It might tell you where to look
Here is the cover label in an easier to read format.
How to get into diagnostic mode is spelled out at the bottom of label.

Thanks Johnnie !!!

I failed to mention it, but this is a 36 volt machine, it has 6 , 6 volt batteries..... I will do the diagnostic test outlined above and see what it tells me.

[Podad]

I have been busy and took a vacation since my original post. Finally got around to doing the diagnostic.

I did the diagnostic as outlined on the post above. It does not give a code at all when I complete the 5 beep setup routine. But when I switch to key to on and depress the pedal the beeper gives a beep-beep.............beep-beep. If I read the chart correctly the 2-2 means high battery voltage ?????? This is a 36 volt machine, it reads 36.7 volts.

When I place the meter leads on the two motor terminals and engage the pedal, the solenoid clicks and there is no (0) voltage at the motor terminals.

The motor reads 5.0 to 5.2 ohms with the motor leads still connected

My feeling at this point is a dead controller...... any help appreciated.

[JohnnieB]

Whether the cart runs or not, you really ought to keep those batteries fully charged.
On Aug-16, they were 75% charged (37.3V) and yesterday they were only 60% (36.7V).
They ought to be 38.2V, or close to it, when you are not actually driving cart.

-----------------
Sounds like your controller is protesting about being overworked and has had a mental breakdown.
(You said the cart was lifted, so it probably has tall tires on it and PDS controllers don't like tall tires.)

Might be a good time to install an aftermarket controller that can handle the tall tires.

[Podad]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Whether the cart runs or not, you really ought to keep those batteries fully charged.
On Aug-16, they were 75% charged (37.3V) and yesterday they were only 60% (36.7V).
They ought to be 38.2V, or close to it, when you are not actually driving cart.

-----------------
Sounds like your controller is protesting about being overworked and has had a mental breakdown.
(You said the cart was lifted, so it probably has tall tires on it and PDS controllers don't like tall tires.)

Might be a good time to install an aftermarket controller that can handle the tall tires.

Thanks Johnnie................. is that a good ohm reading for the motor ?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Podad

................. is that a good ohm reading for the motor ?

I don't know how many Ohms the windings will read, but I do know that is not a good Ohm reading because the windings were not isolated.
When using an Ohmmeter, whatever you are measuring has to be taken out of the circuit so parallel current paths aren't included in the reading.

Remove both A1 & A2 cables and remove both F1 & F2 cables. (Be sure to hold bottom nut on studs, so they don't spin and screw up the wires inside the motor.)
You should have continuity between the A1 & A2 studs. Probably only a few Ohms.
You should have continuity between the F1 & F2 studs. Will be more Ohms than A1 to A2 because Field windings use thinner wire than Armature windings in a Sepex motor.
There should not be any continuity between A1/A2 and F1/F2.
There should not be any continuity between either A1/A2 or F1/F2 and the motor case.

Note: Carbon dust from brushes will cause measurable continuity between winding and/or between windings and case.
If Ohmic value is less than 500k, the motor probably needs to be taken apart and cleaned.
(Might be a good time to replace brushes and bearings while motor is apart. )

[scottyb]

I think you might have a battery issue...
Put that meter on the pack, tape it in place or? Record the voltage at a stand still then try to go, what is the voltage reading when the cart WONT go?