changing crank seals, first timer 88 Marathon

Dmontgomery · 01-05-2013, 12:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ghall

To post pic's, you have to click on post reply then you will see at the top a paper clip click on that and a window will open and click on the browse button. do not use the post quick reply. hope this helps you.

Thanks for the help!

rib33024 · 01-05-2013, 12:29 AM

Another thing that i have found over the years of doing this stuff, if you tighten the to small bolts/one a half turn and then the other one, a half turn - and keep doing that the thing pops off, i've have tried to tighten the big single bolt in the middle of the puller and it would not pop off, and give it a little tap with a hammer once in a while, don't know why it works that way but it does,--- works for me, but you would have to have threaded rod in there with some nuts and washers on it, to tighten the small bolts,

rvkersh · 01-05-2013, 05:46 AM

There are some comet clone clutches out there, so it is very possible that it is metric. Don't for get to lube the threads when pulling.

Ghall · 01-05-2013, 06:02 AM

I just did a rebuild on my 88 and I pulled the fan off then pulled the flywheel so I could tap the flywheel by the crankshaft.

racin161 · 01-05-2013, 08:05 AM

Puller looks correct. Load it and wack it with a hammer then reload it and wack it again it may take quite a bit of pressure to get it to free. I think when it pops you may want to duck and it'll be one of the best days of your life

Another thought would be to remove the puller and remove the plastic fan then reinstall the puller and heat the hub close as possible to the crank with a propane torch to free it up. Remember the pulsar is behind the flywheel so don't use excessive heat and contain it as close to the crank as possible. That is a newer clutch so sorry for the information on the bolt size who would have thunk

but the process is still going to be the same.

LOU

Dmontgomery · 01-05-2013, 09:30 AM

Yeah I keep going to look just expecting it to be popped off but still no luck! One thing I've noticed is a lot of new parts, clutch,top end, looks like the driven clutch has all new internals. What does a green spring mean in a driven clutch? Thought maybe the color had smthn to do with the tension. I'm going to try a 14mm bolt and a broken ratchet extension later on today on the clutch I will keep you posted! Oh and Lou you had no way of knowing it was a diff clutch I'm grateful for all info. As you can tell I know nothing about carts lol

rokcrlr · 01-05-2013, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dmontgomery

Its called aero kroil maybe its not strong enough, its never let me down before ,I looked for PB blaster but couldn't find it anything else recommended?

You can't beat the Aero Kroil, thats the best stuff there is. PB blaster doesn't compare to that stuff.

Dmontgomery · 01-05-2013, 10:52 AM

Yeah that's what I was thinking its never let me down before, in the 10 years I've known about it, I guess when it's STUCK it's STUCK lol

Dmontgomery · 01-12-2013, 07:39 AM

Well no luck!!! Broke down and took the engine to a small engine repair guy. Now its the waiting game. He seemed to be up to the challenge so lets see!!!

Dmontgomery · 01-16-2013, 09:14 PM

Got the engine back today. A small hit to the wallet but I went ahead and had him put the seals in as well.He has owned carts and seems to be a decent mechanic. I got it set in then it started raining ... ready to get this thing back together and see what happens! I decided not to loctite the head bolts even though they were completely loose, I just torqued them to 22lbs. I will keep posting and hopefuly be back running soon

01-05-2013, 12:29 AM	#22
rib33024 ...................... Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: FT Lauderdale FL. Posts: 16,416	Re: changing crank seals, first timer 88 Marathon Another thing that i have found over the years of doing this stuff, if you tighten the to small bolts/one a half turn and then the other one, a half turn - and keep doing that the thing pops off, i've have tried to tighten the big single bolt in the middle of the puller and it would not pop off, and give it a little tap with a hammer once in a while, don't know why it works that way but it does,--- works for me, but you would have to have threaded rod in there with some nuts and washers on it, to tighten the small bolts,

01-05-2013, 05:46 AM	#23
rvkersh Gone Wild Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Dansville, NY Posts: 396	Re: changing crank seals, first timer 88 Marathon There are some comet clone clutches out there, so it is very possible that it is metric. Don't for get to lube the threads when pulling.

01-05-2013, 06:02 AM	#24
Ghall Gone Wild Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Toledo.Ohio Posts: 531	Re: changing crank seals, first timer 88 Marathon I just did a rebuild on my 88 and I pulled the fan off then pulled the flywheel so I could tap the flywheel by the crankshaft.

01-05-2013, 08:05 AM	#25
racin161 Gone Wild Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 1,515	Re: changing crank seals, first timer 88 Marathon Puller looks correct. Load it and wack it with a hammer then reload it and wack it again it may take quite a bit of pressure to get it to free. I think when it pops you may want to duck and it'll be one of the best days of your life Another thought would be to remove the puller and remove the plastic fan then reinstall the puller and heat the hub close as possible to the crank with a propane torch to free it up. Remember the pulsar is behind the flywheel so don't use excessive heat and contain it as close to the crank as possible. That is a newer clutch so sorry for the information on the bolt size who would have thunk but the process is still going to be the same. LOU
racin161 Gone Wild Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 1,515

01-05-2013, 09:30 AM	#26
Dmontgomery Gone Wild Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: North Carolina Posts: 161	Re: changing crank seals, first timer 88 Marathon Yeah I keep going to look just expecting it to be popped off but still no luck! One thing I've noticed is a lot of new parts, clutch,top end, looks like the driven clutch has all new internals. What does a green spring mean in a driven clutch? Thought maybe the color had smthn to do with the tension. I'm going to try a 14mm bolt and a broken ratchet extension later on today on the clutch I will keep you posted! Oh and Lou you had no way of knowing it was a diff clutch I'm grateful for all info. As you can tell I know nothing about carts lol

Today
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01-05-2013, 10:52 AM	#28
Dmontgomery Gone Wild Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: North Carolina Posts: 161	Re: changing crank seals, first timer 88 Marathon Yeah that's what I was thinking its never let me down before, in the 10 years I've known about it, I guess when it's STUCK it's STUCK lol

01-12-2013, 07:39 AM	#29
Dmontgomery Gone Wild Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: North Carolina Posts: 161	Re: changing crank seals, first timer 88 Marathon Well no luck!!! Broke down and took the engine to a small engine repair guy. Now its the waiting game. He seemed to be up to the challenge so lets see!!!

01-16-2013, 09:14 PM	#30
Dmontgomery Gone Wild Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: North Carolina Posts: 161	Re: changing crank seals, first timer 88 Marathon Got the engine back today. A small hit to the wallet but I went ahead and had him put the seals in as well.He has owned carts and seems to be a decent mechanic. I got it set in then it started raining ... ready to get this thing back together and see what happens! I decided not to loctite the head bolts even though they were completely loose, I just torqued them to 22lbs. I will keep posting and hopefuly be back running soon

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