Rear brake drum will NOT budge

[cptaylor]

I was able to disengage the brake pads, so I got it back to where I was originally.

It will not budge.
That was the first thing I looked for was a retaining clip.

I've applied enough force to the puller to where it was almost beginning to mess up the end of the shaft. I had to do a little repair to get the nut to go back on.
That's WAY to much force.

I remove all four bolts that hold the entire assembly to the rear axle. My thinking was I'll just remove the unit as a whole.

It will not budge.

I ask a mechanic to take a quick look on his way home. He tried everything I tried, put the bolt back on so not to damage the end of the shaft, and put a piece of medal over the nut so not to damage it. Tried the puller again.

It will not budge.

I'm at a loss. No idea what to do next. Fearful of hitting it with heat. Not sure of where any bearings are. I had a thought of removing the whole **** right axle, if it's two piece, think it is, but, seriously, one should not have to remove an axle simply to change the brakes.


Any other ideas, keep them coming. I am at a complete loss as what to do.

wow never heard of one that stuck ... one guy had his parking brake on .. check that and see if brake pads are moving .. maybe cable frozen ???

bigger hammer !!!

this is 95 ezgo brakes if it will help

[pete959]

ur splines r rusted to the axle soak in pb blaster and i use a slide hammer and rip drum off. when u reassemble the drum to the axle use anti sezie and u will never have that problem again

[Sir Nuke]

cptaylor, where the bearings are at, in relation to the drum, you would have no issue putting some heat to the drum. at this point, what I would do, is to set up the puller again like your friend did, put a fair amount of strain on it, THEN put some heat on the drum where the splines area at......and if it starts to move tale the heat off and start cranking on the puller as fast as you can. and it wouldn't hurt to put a little more WD or whatever on the splines.

there are bearings behind the drum in the axle

[beachin]

Last ditch effort - score very deep across the drum with an angle grinder, avoiding everything other than the drum. Cold chisel & maul/drift to crack the drum & off.

LAST DITCH! LAST DITCH! LAST DITCH! LAST DITCH!

[Sir Nuke]

Originally Posted by beachin

Last ditch effort - score very deep across the drum with an angle grinder, avoiding everything other than the drum. Cold chisel & maul/drift to crack the drum & off.

LAST DITCH! LAST DITCH! LAST DITCH! LAST DITCH!

and this will work.....been there done that.........just be careful as you go across the splined area.

[cptaylor]

Originally Posted by Sir Nuke

and this will work.....been there done that.........just be careful as you go across the splined area.

Been a while.... Just to finalize this up if someone reads this thread in the future. I had to go with above method, aka LAST DITCH.

Took me two hours of grinding, chisel, grinding, chisel, and prying, but it finally came off once enough was removed, which was 3/4 of the hub on the spline. Of course I had to replace the entire drum and brake assembly, but, no other option. hated it, more work and money involved than should have been, something to learn from that....