1980 G1 Golf Cart Engine

[bradgibson]

OK, thanks. Replacing these two seals is in the plan, but my real issue is oil leaking at the front of the motor where the two case halves are joined together. I assume the cases will need to be split (How?!) and new gasket installed.
Thanks

[1989Marathon]

There isn't a gasket between the case halves. Use an anaerobic sealant between the two pieces.
First make sure that one of the bolts that holds the two halves together isn't loose, or broken. That could be an easy fix if it is just loose.

[Field6565]

You need a clutch puller bolt specifically for a G1 to G22 clutch. I think they are around $40. If I remember correctly I bought a harmonic balancer puller to yank the flywheel. My flywheel didn't want to break loose at first. Give it sometime.....I ended up walking away for an hour while the puller was still on it with pressure. I ended up putting a touch of heat on it with a torch until it broke loose.

[bradgibson]

Alright guys, the engine is apart, thanks for all the tips, everything worked great, except a few things. The clutch rolled off my bench and dinged the generator pulley when it hit the deck. I filed it down good, but I am concerned its toast and will tear the belt under a load. Any thoughts or will I need to buy a new clutch? Also, the crank looks and feels good, both bottom bearings look good, roll good and are still in tack. I will need new seals though. I stripped one of the phillips head bolts that secures the cases together, can't imagine why they are not hex or allen heads. Thanks again for all insight.

[TheGDFP]

Are you sure it's not exhaust dripping on the cases? Threebond 1184 is what I use on all gasketless cases, after cleaning and a light rub with a whetstone to knock down any high spots.

[slonomo]

If the pulley is damaged you will likely need a new clutch unit. If it's not too bad you might be able to use it just replace belt a few times a year, pretty easy to do. If you get it all together and run it with a brand new belt, you can inspect it after a few hours of run time and see how it's wearing the belt, then make your decision on that.

The bolts on my engine cases are definitely not philips head, can't remember, thinking they were hex. How did you strip it? You can use a thread repair kit for that, really easy in aluminum. Just be careful not to over-tighten. Clean all threads before reassembly.

[bradgibson]

Yes I am sure its not exhaust dripping on the case. When I could get the motor to fire, there were small bubbles coming out of where the split in the case is, and I could tell right away what was going on.
Yup, the engine bolts have Phillips heads on them, at least mine did. I did strip one, but managed to tap it with a punch and it finally came also. Thanks for the clutch pully advice.
But back to my original question about reinstalling the top end. Everything looks/feels/appears to be in good condition. There is some slight carbon build up on the top of the piston that will come off with a wire brush, rings are good and tight still. Can I put it all back together?
Thanks again guys

[Cvans]

I't OK to use a wire brush on the head of the piston but not on the sides. You'll remove too much aluminum. Make sure that there is not carbon under the piston rings.
As far as your dented pulley goes, cut a piece of hardwood (oak or maple) in the shape of a splitting wedge so that it fits tight in an undamaged area of the pulley. Go to the damaged area and lightly drive the wedge in. With a brass hammer tap in on either side of the dent until the lip of the pulley is straight again. It doesn't have to be perfect. Belts are somewhat forgiving as long as there are no burrs or sharp edges.

[bradgibson]

OK, after the install I will throw the belt on and see how it behaves.
What is the best site to buy parts for these motors? I am having trouble finding some things I am needing, specifically the fiberglass reed parts. The reed valves are ok, but the part it mounts to is half ripped (stopper valves??). I also need the three bolts that hold what appears to be a spacer between the motor and clutch, these bolts are body bound to the case and I buggered them up pretty bad when I was fighting to remove the clutch that I cant chase the threads.
Thanks again for all info.

[TheGDFP]

The reed cages are the same as several dirt bikes, so plenty of those out there.