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Old 05-15-2016, 09:33 PM   #1
SkysTheLimit
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Default 89 Marathon Starter/Generator Rebuild

I believe the starter generator on my marathon has an issue. checked wiring, brushes seem ok. What does a rebuild entail?
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Old 05-16-2016, 07:36 AM   #2
cart around
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Default Re: 89 Marathon Starter/Generator Rebuild

What are the symptoms that make you think it has an issue?
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Old 05-16-2016, 02:25 PM   #3
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Default Re: 89 Marathon Starter/Generator Rebuild

basically double checked wires, new solenoid, regulator, tested everything down to the A1 A2 wires, at first i suspected a had them backwards going to FNR cross referenced diagram and they are on right. I sanded all contacts. SO either wires are no good, or maybe its something within the starter?
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Old 05-16-2016, 02:26 PM   #4
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Default Re: 89 Marathon Starter/Generator Rebuild

have clicks, found bad pedal microswitch and replaced it. Still won't turnover
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Old 05-16-2016, 05:56 PM   #5
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Default Re: 89 Marathon Starter/Generator Rebuild

F2 is positive. A1 is ground. Use a set of jumper cables, and jump directly to the battery.


The other test is put a meter on your battery terminals. Battery voltage should be more than 12 volts.

Step on pedal to activate solenoid. If voltage drops to 9.6 volts, the battery is junk.

I can tell you that my voltage only drops to 11 volts.
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Old 05-16-2016, 07:55 PM   #6
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Default Re: 89 Marathon Starter/Generator Rebuild

battery is new and i trickle charged it because it sat on a workbench for a year. so that should be good. i will take another look in the morning.
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Old 05-17-2016, 07:04 PM   #7
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Default Re: 89 Marathon Starter/Generator Rebuild

Tried testing it again and no clicks from solenoid now on a fully charged battery... Maybe cables from FNR to starter/generator or no good?
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Old 05-17-2016, 07:45 PM   #8
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Default Re: 89 Marathon Starter/Generator Rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by cart around View Post
F2 is positive. A1 is ground. Use a set of jumper cables, and jump directly to the battery.


The other test is put a meter on your battery terminals. Battery voltage should be more than 12 volts.

Step on pedal to activate solenoid. If voltage drops to 9.6 volts, the battery is junk.

I can tell you that my voltage only drops to 11 volts.
Did you try doing this?

What did your meter read?
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Old 05-17-2016, 08:50 PM   #9
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Default Re: 89 Marathon Starter/Generator Rebuild

going give that a shot tomorrow. i was just using a circuit testing light.
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Old 05-18-2016, 08:17 AM   #10
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Default Re: 89 Marathon Starter/Generator Rebuild

Starting with what Cart said to try, go through this list to test further:


Test Procedure 7 - Starter/Generator (Starter Function)

1. Place the neutral lock-out cam in the SERVICE position, put the forward and reverse lever in the NEUTRAL
position, and chock the wheels.

2. Check that wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.

3. Disconnect the wires from all the terminals on the starter/generator. Then place the black (-) probe of a
multimeter, set to ohms (O), on the starter/generator housing (scratch through the paint to insure a
good ground). While holding the black probe against the housing, place the red (+) probe (one at a
time) on the A1, A2, F1, F2 and DF terminals respectively (Figure 12-25, Page 100). The readings
should be no continuity. If the readings are incorrect, the starter/generator will need to be removed
from the vehicle and disassembled by a qualified technician (See Removal of the Starter/Generator,
Page 107).
An incorrect reading from A1 or A2 terminal indicates three possible problems: 1) a grounded A1 or A2
terminal, 2) a grounded wire in the brush area, or 3) a grounded armature/commutator.
If the F1 or F2 reading is incorrect, it indicates a possible grounded F1 or F2 terminal or a grounded
field coil.
If the DF reading is incorrect, it indicates a possible grounded DF terminal or a grounded field coil.

4. Disconnect the ground wire from the A2 terminal and the green wire from the A1 terminal on the
starter/generator. Using a multimeter set to ohms (O), place the red (+) probe on the A1 terminal and
the black (-) probe on the A2 terminal. The reading should be continuity.
If the reading is incorrect, a possible open or poor contact in a brush assembly and/or open armature
windings maybe the cause. The starter/generator will need to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled
by a qualified technician (See Removal of the Starter/Generator, Page 107).

5. Disconnect the green wire from the F1 terminal and the white wire from the F2 terminal on the starter/
generator. Using a multimeter set on ohms (O), place the red (+) probe on the F1 terminal and the
black (-) probe on the F2 terminal. The reading should be continuity.
If the reading is incorrect, a possible open field coil or bad connections at terminals may be the cause.
The starter/generator will need to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled by a qualified technician

6. Disconnect the yellow wire from the DF terminal and the green wire from the F1 terminal on the starter/
generator. Using a multimeter set on ohms (O), place the red (+) probe on the DF terminal and the
black (-) probe on the F1 terminal. The reading should be between 4.5 to 5.5 ohms (O).
If the reading is incorrect, a possible grounded DF terminal and/or grounded field coil may be the
cause. The starter/generator will need to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled by a qualified
technician


Test Procedure 9 - Starter/Generator (Generator Function)

1. Place the neutral lock-out cam in the SERVICE position, put the forward and reverse lever in the NEUTRAL
position, and chock the wheels.

2. Check that wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.

3. Disconnect the yellow wire from the DF terminal on the starter/generator. Cover the connector on the
yellow wire to make sure the yellow wire will not short to ground. Then, using a jumper wire, ground the
DF terminal to the A2 terminal. Using a multimeter set to Volts DC (20v range), place the red (+) probe
on the positive (+) post of the battery, and place the black (-) probe on the negative (-) post. Turn the
key switch to the ON position, and depress the accelerator to start the engine. Run the engine at full
governed speed. The reading should show voltage rising on the meter. If voltage rises, see Test Procedure
10 - Voltage Regulator. If the voltage does not rise, see Starter/Generator Repair, Pages 107-116.

4. Reconnect the yellow wire to the (DF) terminal on the starter/generator.


Test Procedure 10 - Voltage Regulator:

1. Place the neutral lock-out cam in the SERVICE position, put the forward and reverse lever in the NEUTRAL
position, and chock the wheels.

2. Check that the wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.

3. Start the engine and check engine-governored RPM. The reading should be between 2670-2730 RPM.
If it is not, adjust the accelerator cable at the electrical component box (See Fuel System, Section 14).

4. With the battery in good condition and fully charged, and with proper ventilation, run the engine for several
minutes to bring the voltage regulator to operating temperature, then release the accelerator pedal
to stop the engine. Using a multimeter set to DC volt (DCV), place the red (+) probe on the large post of
the solenoid with the red wire from the voltage regulator attached. Place the black (-) probe on the negative
(-) post of battery. Depress the accelerator to start the engine, and run it at full governed speed. If
the reading is between 14.7 and 15.3 volts, the regulator is good. If the reading is lower than 14.7 volts
but rising steadily, check battery condition (See Hydrometer Test, Page 12. If the reading is lower
than 14.7 volts and not rising, and the starter/generator is good; or if the reading is over 15.3 volts and
continues to rise, replace voltage regulator
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