G2 driven clutch help

[BrutalSoldier]

Originally Posted by spriddle

Need to get sho to do some write ups and we'll sticky them up top.

Please do. I have searched the web till my eyes hurt and can't find a definitive answer on how to set up the clutch. The VC instructions for the clutch are also unclear on the setup choices. <shame Aaron >
I believe I need a lower setting due to having the 625. And what about preload? Is it to be done and is it clockwise or counterclockwise?

[Shieldzee]

Everything I read says clockwise, I'll wait until you get it figure out with your 625 and share Brutal, then I'll know which direction to go

[BrutalSoldier]

Originally Posted by Shieldzee

Everything I read says clockwise, I'll wait until you get it figure out with your 625 and share Brutal, then I'll know which direction to go

Don't wait on me. The way my health has been I might finish by next year.

[sho305]

The preload is always you turn it to tension so it presses the pads against the ramp when you are done. When you put it on you turn it so the pads are going down the ramps, then over the next ramp and down it, then lock it on. You always have to go over one set of ramp tops to get some tension. When you change B1/B2.... you just moving part of a ramp in tension. The pads will want to slide up the ramps and force the clutch apart. That is wanting to down shift to lowest gear. More tension means lower gear, if it had 'gears'.

Always remember the secondary pre load controls rpm when you do not have it on the floor. Far as tuning you need to know what the engine likes and what you like. A larger torque engine like a 600cc or more lawn engine will tend to have lots of power at low rpm, so you would set the preload lower, likely lower than stock cart has. This way the clutch will shift out when you let off the gas and run a steady speed of say 5 to 20mph in a lifted cart. Because your big engine can push the cart easily at 2000 rpm and 1/4 throttle. My cammed clone on the other hand does not like to run at 2K rpm, it needs to be at 2500 at the lowest and 3K is better for loafing along. Otherwise I step on it at 2500 and it spark knocks and has low power and struggles to get going and make the clutch shift back for more rpm. This would be ok on the road where you can ease into the gas, but on trails I run I need faster response.

A large engine will have lots of torque there and easily take off with authority from 2K rpm, easily make the clutch shift back, because it has big torque. It is the rpm it likes, my modded clone likes more rpm to run right with the cam, cut head, larger carb, etc. Now a stock 420 clone in a G9 runs great with the clutches setup at stock settings, I can tell you that. It has about the same powerband as the stock engine. A umax spring will make it have more snap for off road riding.

If you look at a dyno sheet on lawn engines you will see the larger engines have a lower rpm torque peak, so you set the pre load close to your torque peak. Set it higher on smaller or modded engines where the peak will be higher.

So a larger stock lawn engine will often want less preload to use the low rpm torque it has. Smaller engines like to rev more and modded engines like to rev more. The stock 420 is about the same as a stock cart engine, but a modded 420 clone will want more rpm than that.