G1 Runs Very Rough

[LBH]

Okie Dokie,
The Plowmans' clutch came in and we installed it, sort of. It doesn't clear the frame by I'm guessing an inch (See Photos). Miss by an inch, miss by a ....." And ....the old clutch was so tight that the socket and impact driver barely fit.

The way we're looking at this we have 2 choices. Grind the frame then have a service come by and weld a patch on the tube. Or I think we can drop the rear shock by clipping the top mounting holes and drilling new lower ones. This would simulate more compression on the springs and I think that would do the trick. But I am easily confused by these things. I do need to look if it creates more problems in other areas.

Old Clutch. Bolt just clears. In fact we had to drop the rear end to remove it.


New Clutch. Note that the cover is 1" away from the frame.


THE QUESTION: Would lowering the shock solve the problem?

[mikeasis]

check that your motor mounts are in good condition. is the clutch fully installed? and the bolt tightened?

you can mark the section where it is hitting the frame and remove the engine and heat that section with some MAP Gas and smack it with a hammer to bend it in. this is required on G1's with a lift.

**** that's a big clutch

edit: after looking at both my 80 and 84. your cart has been lifted to some degree. that is not the stock mounts or location for the rear shocks. so that's why your clutch is hitting there.

[LBH]

Thanks Mike
Great idea on the MAPP gas. That’s a better way to go than cutting.
Will lowering the shocks raise the clutch ? Or the other way.

[mikeasis]

yes lowering the shocks will raise the clutch. I think if they were in the stock position you wouldn't have an issues.

Be aware lowering the rear shocks will lower the rear of the cart. you you may have to do the same in the front to level it out? can you take some suspension pics. it looks like you cart has a home made lift kit like my 84 does.

is there another set of brackets on the front part of the rear axle? or did they cut them off. who ever did mine left the stock brackets in place.

[LBH]

Sir

Won’t be for a few hours. I think. Learning a bit about suspension.
I like the idea of drilling new holes for the rear shocks. Only need 1”-1 1/2”. Painless.
If it necessitated front end work so be it.

[mikeasis]

Did you get your suspension straightened out?

Would you sell your old clutch assembly I'm in need some internals to keep my 84 going.

[LBH]

Yup. Tested compression and it’s good. It looks like the clutch causing the jerky motion. And it’s getting replaced.

Thanks for the post.

[LBH]

‪Well The clutch is installed..... and there is an Issue. (Surprise) I’ll call it the bell, the large exterior cover that is the clutch will not full extend back to the starting point. It has about 3/4” travel left. You can see this in the picture. I recall the old clutch having 1/128th clearance. I wondered Why?‬

‪It’s because the cart is lifted around 6”. This brings the frame up and it kisses the clutch. Here are my choices as I see them.‬
1. ‪Remove the engine mounting bolts, mover the engine away from the frame, take a football shaped hunk out of the frame and weld on a patch. This keeps the lift.‬
2. ‪Cut down the shock supports (See photo) until the clutch clears the frame. You just don’t know how far you need to drop it. The front must be dropped too.‬

3. ‪One of ya’ll offers up a suggestion. Cuz ya done that.‬

‪‬

[LBH]

Tip for installing a clutch.
When you are trying to tighten down the clutch center bolt you have to hold the housing still. This is pretty tough. I took a wide leather belt and wound it on the outside of the drum in the “contra” position. The more you pull the belt the tighter it gets. You can do it by yourself no problem

[LBH]

I cannot believe.....actually can believe, I already posted the same topic. What a moron