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Old 08-20-2018, 11:14 PM   #11
Mooncarter
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Default Re: Carryall Turf 2

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fairtax4me View Post
That's good because the wire diagrams should be the same as a regular DS from that year, and much easier to find!

There really isn't much to leak on these. It's usually the main cover gasket, or the plug where the wire for the oil sender comes through.

And yes, starter gen is always on top. It works the same regardless of key start/pedal start.
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Old 08-21-2018, 06:49 AM   #12
CP241
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Default Re: Carryall Turf 2

Also think I may have found the spark problem... the pickup on the coil and the entire flywheel is seriously rusty. Like growing fur. Theres like no air gap anymore. Gonna pull the coil and get them both cleaned up real good.

Can anyone tell me what resistance should be through the coil to the boot (with or without boot)?
What is the correct air gap when a new coil is installed?

I aim to have this thing running by this weekend :)
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Old 08-21-2018, 03:49 PM   #13
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Default Re: Carryall Turf 2

Stopped by the local cart shop today, ordered new gasket and crank seal. Will be here Thursday :)

Heres pics of the flywheel and ignition coil. Looks pretty rough to me. Hopefully cleaning it up will help with the intermittent spark issue. I'm sure the magnet cant be picking up well through all the rust... when it sparks it has great spark. It just doesnt last. where can I find what the air gap should be set at?
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Old 08-21-2018, 05:45 PM   #14
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Default Re: Carryall Turf 2

I think the gap is supposed to be around .012", I usually just use a business card between the flywheel and coil and lock it down. Has always worked for me
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Old 08-21-2018, 05:48 PM   #15
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Default Re: Carryall Turf 2

Rotate the flywheel until the magnet is positioned directly under the ignition coil. Use a 0.012-inch (0.304 mm) bronze feeler gauge to set the air gap between the ignition coil and the flywheel magnet.
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Old 08-21-2018, 10:39 PM   #16
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Default Re: Carryall Turf 2

There isn't enough rust there to hurt the way the coil works unless it has made it inside the coil and damaged the winding, which is not likely. You can clean it off but it will come back, and paint is not an option because that will alter the air gap.

I'm not sure of the proper resistance for these coils. If you suspect the coil is the cause a resistance check won't verify that, as you have an intermittent problem. You would have to check the coil resistance when the problem is occurring. It is common for these coils to fail and only work intermittently. You may be a step ahead to just replace the coil while you have access to it. Just don't buy an aftermarket knock off. The cheapies don't last.
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Old 08-21-2018, 11:06 PM   #17
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Default Re: Carryall Turf 2

If metal rust particles complete a circuit between the coil armature and flywheel, no spark. Loose bearings will do the same, but the rust would've been cleaned off...
I also vote for the coil.
Never found megging a coil secondary of much use.
Assuming the plug wire and cap are not grounding on anything? Loose wires anywhere will do as you describe. Engine starts, shakes, and dies. Check all your wiring connections.
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Old 08-21-2018, 11:24 PM   #18
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Default Re: Carryall Turf 2

Thanks guys. I dont believe it to be a wiring problem. When it sits a while, fires right up. No hesitation at all. But runs for a minute then loses spark all together. I really haven't messed with it that much, it loses too much oil to actually drive it! So first up is oil leak, it's bad! I already ordered a new coil for it today. I'll still clean everything up before it goes back in. Was just hoping to find the correct gap because I like to be a bit more precise than just using the business card method (which would have been backup) :)

Thanks for the help guys. Stay tuned, itll be good as new in no time!
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