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Old 06-18-2012, 01:14 AM   #1
Motorman 007
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Default 92 G9 inner sheave

Hey Guys,

I just picked up a '92 G9. It's my first gas Yamaha. Whe driving at speed there was a hellacious nose coming from the rear. I determined it's the driven clutch vs the drive clutch by pulling the belt off and running it with just the front/drive clutch spinning. When I put the belt back on and run it the rear/driven clutch (sliding sheave) appears to wobble badly while "locking in". It appears the previous owner didnt grease the fitting much. When I greased it, it actually quieted down for a little while but the noise slowly came back. So I figure I need something new back there.
I pulled the driven clutch apart (not easy, but not hard). So I've got the fixed sheave, the washer, the sliding sheave and the secondary spring seat with the splined spacer behind it. I think I lost the key for the keyway but of greater concern is the reference to a snap ring that holds the secondary seat onto the shaft that I am seeing on a couple of the parts sites. I was pretty careful during the disassembly and I just didn't see a snap ring. Everything slid off the shaft. The is what appears to be a groove that would have a snap ring. Is there a snap ring???
The sliding sheave bushing is toast and it is VERY loose on the shaft. I assume I need a new one?? The secondary seat with the ramp shoes doesn't appear to be too bad. Should I replace it and for that matter what do you guys recommend that I replace while I have it apart? Sorry for the long post. I just want to give as much info as possible. THANKS
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Old 06-19-2012, 07:40 PM   #2
sho305
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Default Re: 92 G9 inner sheave

There is a snap ring just outside the case. Sites sell a splined ring to replace it that sits on the end of the splines. If you put a larger spring on or sometimes just does it anyway, the snap ring bends over and/or breaks. If you had this ring it would be on next to the case and you don't need the snapring. Usually the hub rubs the case or slides too far back for the clutch to shift properly if nothing is there. Check the plastic shoes that run on the ramps, and ramps should be smooth. If so then its fine to run. Usually you can press a new bushing into the sheave. Check the thickness of the aluminum sheaves for thickness the belt can actually wear through them. They don't shift as well with worn sheaves as it changes the angle of the sheave. You can wind the preload on the spring more it will rev more at part throttle. There are different holes to wind it more or less, factory is not that much you can usually tell by the wear and dirt what holes it was in, then wind over to the next ramp so the shoes have a little pressure on them and put the nut on. Have to line up the key while you do it.

You can buy the sheaves all over, though some say yamaha ones are better. You can buy cut sheaves, I'd recommend that they work nice IMO. They give a lower first gear when you first move its nice on hills and for towing....otherwise no difference. You can get a spring for a limo yamaha that is a little heavier, you can get a lot of aftermarket springs but they are harder to install. I stretched mine out some figured it was old lol. Also check out your tension cable its under the starter pulley. It keeps the engine mounts from torquing to the trans under high throttle. Tighter it will take off better but too tight you lose top speed.

Should clean and lube the primary clutch as well depending on what is on it. Don't pump the stock clutch full of grease it will fill the cover and can get on the belt. 2-3 pumps should be enough and 1-2 once in a while after that. I tell you all this because the clutches don't work well when they are dirty and all, you lose power and speed maybe, they run a lot better after servicing and most carts never get any.
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Old 06-25-2012, 12:34 PM   #3
Motorman 007
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Default Re: 92 G9 inner sheave

Quote:
Originally Posted by sho305 View Post
There is a snap ring just outside the case. Sites sell a splined ring to replace it that sits on the end of the splines. If you put a larger spring on or sometimes just does it anyway, the snap ring bends over and/or breaks. If you had this ring it would be on next to the case and you don't need the snapring. Usually the hub rubs the case or slides too far back for the clutch to shift properly if nothing is there. Check the plastic shoes that run on the ramps, and ramps should be smooth. If so then its fine to run. Usually you can press a new bushing into the sheave. Check the thickness of the aluminum sheaves for thickness the belt can actually wear through them. They don't shift as well with worn sheaves as it changes the angle of the sheave. You can wind the preload on the spring more it will rev more at part throttle. There are different holes to wind it more or less, factory is not that much you can usually tell by the wear and dirt what holes it was in, then wind over to the next ramp so the shoes have a little pressure on them and put the nut on. Have to line up the key while you do it.

You can buy the sheaves all over, though some say yamaha ones are better. You can buy cut sheaves, I'd recommend that they work nice IMO. They give a lower first gear when you first move its nice on hills and for towing....otherwise no difference. You can get a spring for a limo yamaha that is a little heavier, you can get a lot of aftermarket springs but they are harder to install. I stretched mine out some figured it was old lol. Also check out your tension cable its under the starter pulley. It keeps the engine mounts from torquing to the trans under high throttle. Tighter it will take off better but too tight you lose top speed.

Should clean and lube the primary clutch as well depending on what is on it. Don't pump the stock clutch full of grease it will fill the cover and can get on the belt. 2-3 pumps should be enough and 1-2 once in a while after that. I tell you all this because the clutches don't work well when they are dirty and all, you lose power and speed maybe, they run a lot better after servicing and most carts never get any.
Thanks for the reply. I thought I would get more input but oh well. I have a power clutch kit coming along with some new ramps shoes and belt. Hopefully that will straighten it out. Thanks again.
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:47 AM   #4
TROUBADOUR
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Default Re: 92 G9 inner sheave

How many people do you need to have tell you the same things? When you get good info does it make it better when repeated by several others? Be happy with good input given once rather than conflicting input given many times.
Or do you just want 35 people replying "What he said!" for some reason?
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Old 06-26-2012, 04:57 PM   #5
Motorman 007
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Default Re: 92 G9 inner sheave

Quote:
Originally Posted by TROUBADOUR View Post
How many people do you need to have tell you the same things? When you get good info does it make it better when repeated by several others? Be happy with good input given once rather than conflicting input given many times.
Or do you just want 35 people replying "What he said!" for some reason?
We're you offering anything productive?...if so I didn't see it in your reply. I'm happy to get good solid advice but yours doesn't appear to meet that standard.
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