Need help with 95 medalist

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by DJGCWB

Johnnie, serious question. I did a quick search in eBay and there are a ton of these selling for $10.00, are these not if the same quality as the one you provided the link for? I don't want to buy something that is t going to work properly but also don't want to waste $$$ unnecessarily. Just wondering what your thoughts are. Thank you for your helpful insight!

I've found one tends to get what they pay for, or as Mark Twain said:
Quality is like buying oats: If you want nice, clean, fresh oats you must pay a fair price.
However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes a little cheaper...

The one I have is connected directly to the battery pack's main terminals and has been running continuously since Jun-2011 except for brief periods of time during battery pack, controller and motor upgrades. For the first two of those four years the cart sat outside in the rain and snow and the meter works just as well and is just as readable today as it was when it was first installed.

The meters on E-bay probably aren't waterproof and may not last as long, but you might get lucky.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by DJGCWB

Are you thinking I just ran the pack down to too low?

Leave the word "Just" out and that is one of my thoughts.
The other thoughts are questions that more information is needed to answer.
Did taking new batteries that far wipe any of them out?
Did the low voltage take out the controller?

[DJGCWB]

I'll be home later today and will be able to check all the batteries with my voltmeter. I'll report back when I get to my toolbox. I hope I didn't smoke any of these batteries... I'm gonna be sick if I ruined $730 worth of brand new batteries...

[DJGCWB]

I have 6.2V on each battery and got 37.8V for the whole pack.

[DJGCWB]

I'm guessing they weren't drained as much as my gauge was showing... Got the charger hooked up now. The voltage of the battery pack seems fine doesn't it? Maybe controller when out?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by DJGCWB

I'm guessing they weren't drained as much as my gauge was showing... Got the charger hooked up now. The voltage of the battery pack seems fine doesn't it? Maybe controller when out?

Jury is still out on the batteries, but looks favorable.
AS mentioned before, charge them until charger shuts off automatically, and then doing it again.
Then let them sit for about 12 hours without being further charged or discharged and the voltage should be pretty close to the voltages listed on the chart I attached.

As for the controller being bad, that needs some troubleshooting to determine.

I see a F/R switch in front of the controller in the picture embedded in your first post, so you have a series drive, but can't see the top of the controller. Does it have a 6-pin connector on top, or 4 push-on connectors?

In either case, with the charger disconnected from the cart, key ON and either F or R selected, does solenoid click when pedal is pushed?

[DJGCWB]

I am doing the charge, re-charge process now. I will check voltage after complete.

Here is a pic of the controller and solenoid.


Yes the solenoid does click.

[DJGCWB]

Better pic of the controller.

[JohnnieB]

That looks like a Curtis 1204 or 1205 rather than the Curtis 1206 typically found in a 1995 Medalist.

Also looks like some cutting and splicing has occurred.

The attached schematic ought to be pretty close, except for wire colors.

After solenoid clicks, make sure you have full pack voltage on Pin-1 (red wire from small terminal on solenoid). That is what powers up the controller.

If you've got it, then connect your voltmeter between the B- and M- terminals on the controller.

When pedal is pushed just far enough to make the solenoid click, you should measure full pack voltage.

If you don't, there is an open cable or connection in the heavy gauge cables, F/R high current contacts or motor.

[DJGCWB]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

That looks like a Curtis 1204 or 1205 rather than the Curtis 1206 typically found in a 1995 Medalist.



Also looks like some cutting and splicing has occurred.



The attached schematic ought to be pretty close, except for wire colors.



After solenoid clicks, make sure you have full pack voltage on Pin-1 (red wire from small terminal on solenoid). That is what powers up the controller.



If you've got it, then connect your voltmeter between the B- and M- terminals on the controller.



When pedal is pushed just far enough to make the solenoid click, you should measure full pack voltage.



If you don't, there is an open cable or connection in the heavy gauge cables, F/R high current contacts or motor.

Ok. Battery pack has charged until charger shut off twice. This afternoon the pack should have rested long enough and I will check pack voltage and the voltage at the controller connections as you described.
Question about checking the B- and M- on the controller. Just touch one lead to each post on the controller? It won't matter which is positive or negative? Don't check each one individually with my negative lead grounded to the main pack negative?