EZGO TXT Stopped Running - Please Help!

[Jwade79]

Hello - I have a 48v TXT series cart. A few weeks ago my cart stopped running after having just returned home with no problems. I could hear the solenoid clicking. I ended up fixing a loose wire on the F&R switch which I thought fixed the issue.

Unfortunately the same thing happened again last nite. It stopped running, and it seemed there was a bit of a delay in the solenoid when I let off the gas pedal. I checked again this morning and still not running, and now I do not hear the solenoid clicking at all.

I have ~ 8v to each battery and a reading of ~ 51v on main battery pack. It doesn’t appear I have power to any of the 3 posts on the F&R switch. I have a reading of ~ 51v at the pos terminal of the charger receptacle. Would this indicate I need to replace the F&R switch?

I’m not exactly sure what a reed switch is, but based on some research I’ve done that seems to be a common issue that you can bypass. I’m not sure, but i don’t think I have a reed switch. I’ve attached a photo.

Also, it may be worth noting the following: about a month ago I couldn’t fully insert the charger plug in the receptacle and causally tried to take some pliers to move the terminal a little. Of course I neglected to remove wires from main batt pack and a nice little explosion occurred as a result. I replaced the port which fixed the charger plug issue but about 1” of the main white wire on the receptacle looks burnt, but as I mentioned I am getting full power.

Any help troubleshooting this issue would be greatly appreciated!!

[orangeman6]

Your reed switch looks to have been bypassed. That red wire with the connector on it is the bypass. I would repair the white wire.

You have to start with getting the solenoid to click. That is the job of the “little wires”. I believe it goes reed switch, f/r micro, key switch, pedal micro, solenoid. You need pack voltage along that whole path. Once the solenoid clicks (and is confirmed to be passing voltage) you can trace the high amperage wires.

Someone that knows for sure will be along, but I’d get the meter out and start checking. Johnnieb has posted a highlighted diagram numerous times. It’s referred to as the activation circuit. Advanced search could be your friend.

[Jwade79]

Ok, so if I have power at the pos battery terminal / reed switch (which has been bypassed), and considering I’m not showing any power at the FR Switch which is next in line, would that indicate the F/R as the issue? Would I need to press the pedal to check for power at F/R switch?

[orangeman6]

Take a look at this diagram. Follow the wire starting at the reed switch.

[orangeman6]

We could use one of the experts here.

After the reed switch, you’re looking for power to the f/r micro switch. Power through that switch and on through the path in the diagram.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Jwade79

Ok, so if I have power at the pos battery terminal / reed switch (which has been bypassed), and considering I’m not showing any power at the FR Switch which is next in line, would that indicate the F/R as the issue? Would I need to press the pedal to check for power at F/R switch?

If you have voltage at the reed switch bypass and don't have voltage at microswitch on F/R (MS-2), the problem is between those two points.

The in-line connector in the red wire from the charger receptacle is a likely suspect.

I had that crimp-on connector fail when I was miles from the house, but had a voltmeter with me and a pair of nail clippers. Cut the in-line connector out, twisted the bare wires together and soldered them when I got home.


Also, fix the burnt white wire. It is a failure waiting to happen and will most likely fail at the most inopportune time.

[orangeman6]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

If you have voltage at the reed switch bypass and don't have voltage at microswitch on F/R (MS-2), the problem is between those two points.

The in-line connector in the red wire from the charger receptacle is a likely suspect.

I had that crimp-on connector fail when I was miles from the house, but had a voltmeter with me and a pair of nail clippers. Cut the in-line connector out, twisted the bare wires together and soldered them when I got home.


Also, fix the burnt white wire. It is a failure waiting to happen and will most likely fail at the most inopportune time.

There he is. OP, stay on this while you got johnnieb on the case. You’ll get it figured out if you follow what he says.

[Jwade79]

Ok, I am going to go ahead and fix the burnt white wire. Regarding the “in-line connector”, would that be the ~12” red wire from the + terminal of the charger receptacle? I assume so, just want to clarify as I already replaced that wire.

[JohnnieB]

There is a spade connector pair connecting the red wire from the positive terminal in the charger receptacle to the red wire with white stripe going to the other side of the cart (goes to MS-2 on F/R).

Cut the male and female spade connector ends off, strip the insulation off the two wires for a half inch or so and twist the Red and Red/White together.

That ought to get voltage of to the microswitch on the F/R assembly.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Jwade79

Ok, I am going to go ahead and fix the burnt white wire. Regarding the “in-line connector”, would that be the ~12” red wire from the + terminal of the charger receptacle? I assume so, just want to clarify as I already replaced that wire.

I just reread your post.

No it is not the 12" red wire. It is the in-line connector that connects the red wire to the red/white on that goes across the cart to the F/R switch assembly.