checking controller output

[BeauB]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

How about some pictures of the cart, controller and F/R switch.

Hope this helps

[JohnnieB]

Okay. That is a series drive with a Curtis 1206 controller.

Attached are the ITS voltage check procedure for a Curtis 1206 controller.

[BeauB]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Okay. That is a series drive with a Curtis 1206 controller.

Attached are the ITS voltage check procedure for a Curtis 1206 controller.

Thank you for you’re help I’m out of town till next weekend and will test is out when I get back, I’ll try to look up what pins are what like I said I’m ignorant on it and appreciate you’re help.

[JohnnieB]

Pins 1 & 2 are the ITS input to the controller. Pin-1 is the white wire, Pin-2 is the black wire.

[BeauB]

Thank you

[kantuckian]

Thanks for the info

[BeauB]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Okay. That is a series drive with a Curtis 1206 controller.

Attached are the ITS voltage check procedure for a Curtis 1206 controller.

So everything checked as the diagram shows what should I do next?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by BeauB

So everything checked as the diagram shows what should I do next?

Buy a new controller.

Recommend replacing it with an Alltrax SR48400 user programmable controller.
https://www.cartsunlimited.net/alltrax-sr-series--.html

[BeauB]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Buy a new controller.

Recommend replacing it with an Alltrax SR48400 user programmable controller.
https://www.cartsunlimited.net/alltrax-sr-series--.html

Ahh ok I was hoping that meant it was still good lol thanks for all the info

[joelbagz]

I may be on the wrong section here but I have a 2000 model txt 36v and I'm having a weird precieved controller problem too..

If from a stand still i hit the pedal to the floor the cart dies. Will not move unless I power cycle the controller.

Now I have some yamaha hybrid controller due to the stock ones being discontinued as I've been told. That has an adapter lead to the stock white flat 10 pin. Has positive IN. that's fed from the solenoid. Negative fed from the battery pack. A1 and A2 that go to the motor (thick cable) and 2 medium gauge cables F1 and F2 they also go to the motor.

Now current diagnosis. Solenoid. Reed switch. F and R switch and throttle voltage all work and read the right voltages whether the carts working or not. What I have discovered is that when working correctly. I get 5.X volts out of F1 when in FWD which swaps to 5.X volts on F2 when in REV. A1 and A2 always have the pack voltage when pedal is pressed and solenoid is activated.

When I flat foot it and it dies. I only get 4.4V out of F1 and this will not change to F2 regardless if I switch to REV. however the connection at the 10pin still changes from FWD to REV as it should so the controller is being told to change but it won't. Only way to fix it is to pull power from the controller via either removing the 10pin or using the tow switch.

Then the cart drives until you flat foot it or take off to quickly on any sort of hill.. any thoughts.