G1 auto oil injection filter swap

[Prof100]

I changed the small in line oil filter that feeds the auto oil injector. How do I get the air out of the line? I tried pressurizing the oil tank but no luck.

[mikeasis]

I believe there’s a procedure outlined in the service manual. Check the bottom of my post for a link to the service manual

IMO delete and premix.

[Prof100]

Originally Posted by mikeasis

I believe there’s a procedure outlined in the service manual. Check the bottom of my post for a link to the service manual

IMO delete and premix.

Mike,

I will look. I have already downloaded the service manual. I read it but did not find a procedure for bleeding air from the new in line filter and line.

I prefer the oil injection. Worked fine for 25 years. IMHO, in line oil filter change should not require a complicated process for removing and replacing with new. Since writing my initial post I was able to disconnect the new filter on the inlet side and pressurize the oil tank again. I replaced the black oil line with transparent Tygon tube before pressurizing and metered in the air and was able to remove the air from the inlet side.

Bill

[slonomo]

Here's the thing. If that oil injection system goes bad, you'll never know it. Being 25+ years old....it's on borrowed time. Not saying it doesn't work fine now. But like I said, if it fails, you won't know, and your engine will seize up. There is no disadvantage to premixing at 100:1. Factory oil injection mixes at 150:1.

Here's a calculator
http://www.csgnetwork.com/oilfuelcalc.html

[AGELE55]

Originally Posted by slonomo

Here's the thing. If that oil injection system goes bad, you'll never know it. Being 25+ years old....it's on borrowed time. Not saying it doesn't work fine now. But like I said, if it fails, you won't know, and your engine will seize up. There is no disadvantage to premixing at 100:1. Factory oil injection mixes at 150:1.

Here's a calculator
http://www.csgnetwork.com/oilfuelcalc.html

My G1 cart concerns me. I never see the oil level drop from the tank. I just replaced the crank seals which was like a miracle cure for its sluggish starting. While in there I saw a lot of run out (wiggle) on the crank shaft. I’ll be pulling the engine to replace the crank bearings in the next few weeks.
After all this work, I need to ensure it’s oiling, so I think I’ll give up and go to a premix. You’re saying 150:1 is a good mix? Figure 6 1/2 oz per 5 gallons?
Also, if I premix a tank and run it, can I also route the existing oil line into a test container while driving around to see if it delivers oil?
Thanks in advance for your insight.

[mikeasis]

IMO mix in small batches and check the plug often and see what the engine likes. I’d do at least 100:1 or 80:1 but both my 80 and 84 liked 50:1 with synthetic oil and rec fuel. I know the oil injection was mixing at different ratios but it all depended how the cart was being run and to me 150:1 is to lean

[cgtech]

Originally Posted by AGELE55

My G1 cart concerns me. I never see the oil level drop from the tank.....

One tank of oil should last roughly 10 tanks of fuel. But I'm in the premix team. If you pull the oil hose off the carb, be sure to block the port on the carb where the hose connects.

[slonomo]

My G1 carts all ran good at 85:1 and 100:1. One cart ran 120:1 for years with no abnormal engine wear upon inspection. In the Yamaha G1 service manual on page 8 it says the factory oil is Yamalube Golf Cart Oil and the factory oil injection system mixes at 150:1 at max load.

[meimk]

FYI: The factory label on the old 2 stroke EZGO's called for 128:1 for premix. I would think the Yamaha should be fine in that same ballpark.

[Darrinm67]

Has anyone tried to put an engine temperature gauge on a G1 to get an indication of the oil injection/pre-mix health? Seems this would solve the problem of wondering if your oil injection is working or not or give you an idea of how well your pre-mix ratio is working.