98 regan 2 solenoid not clicking

[Bryans200583]

I have a 1998 ds I’m sure is a regan 2. It had the second solenoid in it that I have removed. The main solenoid is not clicking. I have another cart that is exactly the same that runs and I have been using parts off it to try to get this one to run. Ive replaced the vglide, charger plug, f/r switch, the solenoid, the obc and the tow run switch. The controller was just sent off and rebuilt. With all that changed out to know working parts, it still won’t click. The cart will charge when plugged into charger.
On the solenoid, I have 48v at both big terminals and on one of the small terminals with just the cart turned on. When I push the gas pedal, it stays the same.
Thanks for the help

[Mooncarter]

I think that cart gets the 48v - from the controller to activate the solenoid(s). Look at the diagram in the "Stickies" to verify this.

[FatBusting]

The small wire on the hot side of the solenoid should only be hot if the ignition is on and the pedal is pressed a little bit and the cart is in reverse or foreward.

When all else failed, I took a pair of jumper cables and connected the big input wire to the small input wire to short the 48v+ big wire into the small solenoid wire above it to make a click. (not saying it is a good idea) Doing this made the solenoid click, so i traced back the small wire. It is also theoretically possible to use a jumper cable to bridge the 2 big wires on the solenoid. A solenoid is just a switch, one small wire is hot, the other is ground. Apply power to the hot small side and click, the 2 big wires are connected. Shorting the battery to the small wire above should make it go click. Connecting big wire to big wire bypasses the solenoid all together.

If you have no click with the small wire jumper, but have motion with the big wire jumper, you have a problem on the ground side of the solenoid not going to ground. If you can jumper from ground of the battery to the small wire ground, if you hear a click, your problem is on the ground side.

One way to test the ground is to measure voltage between the 48v+ battery terminal and the ground side of the solenoid. You should see voltage and if you don't, the ground is bad.

[Bryans200583]

So, I’m getting power to one side of the small terminals without even pushing the pedal. So what your saying is, I should be able to put a wire from the battery pack negative to the other small side of the solenoid and it should click in? If that works, and all my wires are good, then is the problem more than likely the controller? Thanks for your help

[Fairtax4me]

If you only have power on one side the coil has failed in the solenoid, or the controller is providing the negative as it should, and the solenoid is faulty.
The solenoid gets power from the OBC, but it goes through a welded splice in the harness before going to the solenoids, and it is common for that splice to fail and cause a loss of voltage. With the Tow/Run switch in Run, You should have 35v or more at the Blue wire going to the solenoid small post. If voltage is less tan 35v the solenoid will not engage, and the wiring needs to be repaired at the splice to get proper power to the solenoid.

If the solenoid coil is good, then that voltage will carry through the coil and will be present on both small posts, and also be present at the controller.
With the Key on, FnR in F or R, press the pedal and the Blue/White stripe wire should drop to 0v to indicate the controller is providing negative for the solenoid, and the solenoid should engage.

[Mooncarter]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

If you only have power on one side the coil has failed in the solenoid, or the controller is providing the negative as it should, and the solenoid is faulty.
The solenoid gets power from the OBC, but it goes through a welded splice in the harness before going to the solenoids, and it is common for that splice to fail and cause a loss of voltage. With the Tow/Run switch in Run, You should have 35v or more at the Blue wire going to the solenoid small post. If voltage is less tan 35v the solenoid will not engage, and the wiring needs to be repaired at the splice to get proper power to the solenoid.

If the solenoid coil is good, then that voltage will carry through the coil and will be present on both small posts, and also be present at the controller.
With the Key on, FnR in F or R, press the pedal and the Blue/White stripe wire should drop to 0v to indicate the controller is providing negative for the solenoid, and the solenoid should engage.

What he said.

[Bryans200583]

Ok thanks. I haven’t had a chance to check this yet my dad has been in the hospital and haven’t messed with the cart any in a few days. So if I’m getting right, one small terminal on solenoid should be ground and the other power for it to engage, right? So if I’m getting power to one small terminal I could run a jumper from the neg battery terminal and check to see if it engages. If it does, then it’s the wiring or controller not suppling a negative. Not sure if what I’m thinking is correct or not. Thanks.

[Mooncarter]

You can do this from pack negative. Make sure the rear wheels are jacked off the ground.