Added several accessories to my G16. Keep blowing 10a fuse near solenoid.

[AGrayson84]

Hey everyone I've been finishing up adding some accessories to my G16 over the past few days and I've been blowing the 10-amp fuse located near the solenoid several times in attempt to get everything working.

What I did was ran a 10-gauge wire from the battery to the front of the cart. I'm using a relay, with an ignition wire as the trigger for the relay. I simply tapped into the wire that provides power when the key is in the ON position, and ran that to post 86 on the relay. I have 85 going to chassis ground, then the supply coming from the 10-gauge wire (ran directly from the battery) to 30, and lastly I have more 10 gauge wire running off 87 to a fuse block that holds up to 6 fuses.

I have a 10-amp fuse, going to a new switch, to operate two 55-watt front auxiliary lights.

I have a 10-amp fuse, which I wired to the factory reverse switch with new wiring, to operate two 55-watt reverse lights.

I have a 5-amp fuse, going to a new switch, to operate the LED tail-lights

I have a 5-amp fuse, going to a new switch, to operate two 15-watt dome lights.

Whenever I try to kick all accessories on the factory fuse near the solenoid blows. If I kick on 2 or 3 out of the 4 items, everything seems to work fine, but I haven't tried this with engaging the starter which I have a feeling may blow the fuse too the way that things are going so far.

What I don't understand is why that factory fuse near the solenoid is blowing. The ONLY factory wiring that I'm using is one ignition wire as the trigger to my relay-- the actual supply is coming from the new 10-gauge wire. And after looking at this diagram, the fuse that keeps blowing appears to be a ground wire, not a 12v+ wire.

http://www.cunninghamgolfcar.com/ima...aha%20G16A.pdf

I'm not running ground from the battery, but rather using a 16-gauge wire grounded to the chassis using a ring terminal on a factory bolt. While I have been wiring everything up I temporarily twisted together approximately seven (7) 16-gauge ground wires (used for the switches and some of the lights), using a wire nut to attach them to the single 16-gauge wire that is grounded to the chassis. Is my problem maybe that I need to run a thicker wire to the chassis, considering that I'm blowing a ground fuse? Or do I need to run a new wire from the battery instead of using the chassis as my common grounding point for all of these ground wires?

Everything was working fine when it was just the dome lights, the two 55-watt front aux lights, and the two LED tail-lights. It wasn't until I wired the reverse switch to some new wiring that goes to my key-on fuse block on one end, and to the new 55-watt reverse lights on the other, that I started blowing this fuse near the solenoid. Sorry for all of the typing but I figure the more info I can give you guys, the better. Thanks so much for anyone that takes the time to read this and can provide some input-- I'd really appreciate it!!

Thanks,
Andrew

[Mike Mac]

ALL Grounds have to ground to the battery negative. I didn't read all your post, but, No chassie grounds!

I would have run all accessories on a completely seperate circuit.

[AGrayson84]

Thanks Mike. I apologize, but missed a recent post in this same section that just covered this. Crap. I just did a ton of wiring that took several long days to make look clean and I ran absolutely no ground wire up to my roof in order. That means the 55w front lights, 55w rear lights, and 15w dome lights are all grounded to the chassis and it's not going to be an easy fix since it's a total pain trying to feed wiring through the front roof support. Stupid question, but can I not just run a 10-gauge wire from the battery to the chassis using a larger amp fuse?? I really don't want to have to fiddle with forcing a ground wire through the roof support if I absolutely don't have to.

Thanks!

[Mike Mac]

On a G16 I'm not sure. I have just read here, you don't ground anywhere but back to battery on Yamaha's

[Mike Mac]

But I ground from the starter ground lug, not the battery. And I get my positive from the battery side of the solenoid. For a clean look! 3yrs. and never had a problem!

[Mike Mac]

Your 16 has a different ignition than mine. Maybe Smallblock will come in here, and tell you it will work.

[essness]

I've been told you can up the fuse to a 25amp and it will cure the issue. I've never done this because, I believe the 10amp fuse in that position was not simply a mistake in the original design.
Good luck

[Mike Mac]

The guage size of the wire in the stock harness, I thought was a bit light, so I left it alone. And used my own seperate system, using 14 guage for most of it. But I have only added a couple 55 watt head lights and LED tail lights. The generator only puts out 15 amps, and that is at full throttle, so if you run much elect. on these things, I'm thinking it will be hard on the gen., voltage reg. as well as the battery. Increasing chance of componet failure.

[LURCH]

I have been told many times on here by several different people all Grounds must go to the battery period!!!!!!!
I ran a ground to a buss bar under the dash and ran everything from that.

LURCH!!!!!!

[Mike Mac]

Seems like I remember Block saying, a 16 has a mag ignition, and is not restricted with the ground like earlier models are. But I could be very wrong!!