2000 EZ GO TXT wont move

[jbaggie]

I have recently acquired a 2000 EZGO TXT. I replace the solenoid and that did not work. I do not hear any clicking sound coming from the solenoid when pressing the accelerator. Does anyone have any advice?

[scottyb]

Your solenoid activation circuit has failed. Identify your drive system type and select the correct chart

Follow the red line on the diagram. Use a multi meter starting at the battery receptacle.
If 36v (+) is present at every point of the red line check the blue (-) wire.

[jbaggie]

Thank You. I will give this a shot

[jbaggie]

I have voltage for the red and blue wires at all locations. could this be a controller problem?

[scottyb]

If the solenoid clicks then, yes.

See controller diagnostics below

Testing of the EZGO ELECTRONIC SPEED CONTROL - SERIES Drive system.
ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE BEFORE REMOVING CONTROLLER COVER. RE-CONNECT CABLE AFTER COVER IS REMOVED.
These tests are to be conducted after making sure all wires and cable connections are clean and tight.
Battery pack MUST read 36v to 38v
PLACE THE REAR OF THE CART SECURELY ON JACK STANDS FOR SAFETY
Connect (-) probe of meter on Battery Pack main Negative (-) post. (This probe will on the post for the rest of the testing procedures) Connect (+) probe to the Battery Pack Positive (+) battery post. (This reading is the Battery pack voltage and is often referred to as pack voltage.
NOW, Key switch ON, gear selector in FORWARD, Place the (+) probe on the battery side of the solenoid's large post (If the reading is below battery voltage, check cable connections between solenoid and Main (+).
Place the (+) probe to the controller side of the solenoid's large post. With the resistor in place the reading should be 0.1 to 3 volts less than battery voltage. If the reading is more than 3 volts less the battery voltage, the resistor is faulty. If the voltage is the same as the battery voltage, replace the solenoid.
Solenoid test is done with the resistor removed from one large terminal. You should always have pack voltage (+) on the side connected to the batteries. When the small terminals have (+) and (-) to them the solenoid should CLICK and pack voltage should be present at both large terminals. If no, the solenoid has failed. If (+) and (-) are not present at the small terminals when the pedal is pressed, a problem exists within the solenoid activation circuit. This circuit consists of a series of switches and is easily traced using the solenoid activation circuit diagrams available on the forum. The switches are activated in this order: Reed switch – F&R micro switch(ms) – key switch – Foot or pedal box switch. All of these switches must work before the (+) side of the solenoid activation is delivered to one of the small posts (red wire)



CHECKING CONTROLLER INPUT
Connect (-) probe to B- terminal. Connect (+) probe to B+ terminal.
The reading should indicate approx. 0 volts with the resistor REMOVED and the pedal not pressed in the last 15-30 minutes.
Slowly depress accelerator pedal until the solenoid engages.
The reading should show the battery pack voltage. If the voltage is at or near battery voltage, the cart is in forward gear, and the motor is not turning, then the problem lies in the forward/reverse switch, the high amperage wiring, the speed controller, or the motor.
If the voltage is not at or near battery voltage, replace the controller.

CHECKING CONTROLLER OUTPUT Connect (-) probe to controller M- and (+) lead to controller B-
With the key on and the cart in forward gear, press the pedal just far enough to hear the solenoid engage. You should read pack voltage between and M- and B-. Now continue to press the pedal down and watch the meter. The reading should gradually decrease to near 0 volts. If the input test was good and the ITS readings are correct and this test does not perform as described above then the controller has failed.
If the test are good for the solenoid and controller operation, and the cart does not go, the problem may be in the forward and reverse switch (F&R) or the motor. Be certain that the battery pack voltage is not dropping dramatically when you try to go - this may indicate one or more bad batteries which may prohibit the cart from running.

[jbaggie]

I have replaced the solenoid and put a rebuilt controller on the cart and it did not fix the problem. The solenoid is not clicking. Is there anything that I am overlooking?

[JohnnieB]

Yes, if the solenoid is not clicking, you've obviously overlooked something.

What type drive system does the cart have? (Either a Series or PDS if it is truly a 2000 TXT, which are very different animals.)

[jbaggie]

2000 PDS ezgo

[JohnnieB]

For your future reference, there are two versions of the 2000 PDS, one had the F/R selector by the driver's knee and the other had a F/R rocker switch on the dash by the keyswitch. Fortunately, troubleshooting is roughly the same for both, but which one you have should be mentioned when identifying your cart.

Getting the solenoid to click on a PDS is a two step process, first it has to be armed and then it has to be fired. Arming it is getting the controller to apply B+ (pack voltage) to the yellow wire (J1 Pin-7). Firing it is getting the controller to apply B- to the blue wire (J1 Pin-6).

In an early post you mentioned you have voltage on all the wires that were highlighted in red and blue on the schematic Scotty posted. That means the solenoid was armed. (If the solenoid coil is intact, the B+ voltage on the yellow wire feeds through the coil and is present on the blue wire.)

When the pedal is pushed, the contacts in the pedal microswitch close and the pack voltage coming from the controller at J4 Pin-2 is applied to J4 Pin-1, which tells the controller to fire the solenoid. (IE: Apply B- to J1 Pin-6)

Since the solenoid is being armed, but not fired, the pedal switch circuit could be bad, or the controller could be bad.

The pedal switch can be checked by pulling J4 (Flip Run/Tow switch to Tow before unplugging or plugging in any plug or other electrical connection, or it might take out the controller) and measuring between Pins 1 & 2 with an ohmmeter.
Pedal up = Open
Pedal down = Short --- Anything more than a few Ohms is bad!!!

There is an inline connector between J4 at the controller and the pedal box that has a bad tendency to corrode and can cause a problem like you have as well as ITS problems as well. Give it a good cleaning with spray cleaner.

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Also, put controller in diagnostic mode (Text at bottom of attached label tells you how) and see if any error code exist. 3-1 is a solenoid driver failure.

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A quick and easy check to see if the solenoid is good is to push the cart, or let it roll on an incline. If the Run/Tow switch is in Run and the throttle pedal is up, the solenoid will energize, the beeper will beep rapidly and the controller will turn on the regenerative braking at its max level.

[jbaggie]

thank you so much for your time. I will check all of this out. the F/R selector is by the knee.