Used 36V Medalist, looking for advice

[Josh61513]

New member here, hello everyone,

I just purchased a 94 Ezgo Medalist from a neighbor at a garage sale. It was listed as "low power up hills". I took it for a test drive and it runs, but it's down a bit on power and really struggles going up hills. Looked at the batteries, they look old (see picture) so I figured that's the root-cause of the low power. I bought it for $900 with the charger which seemed like a pretty good price to me.

I found this place, did some research, and it seems like most people convert the 36V systems to 48V for more power/speed. Model is a "24P94". Serial number decodes to a 1995 Medalist.

Since I (believe) the batteries are shot, it seems like it would make sense to replace them with 8V batteries instead of 6V. Where I need some help is I don't know what else needs changed to handle 48V? At this point I'm not looking for more current etc. the little boost from 48V will be plenty for now.

We do have ~15 acres of woods behind us, and a trail that connects our place to a family friends house so I would consider bigger tires and a small lift kit in the future but for now I don't want to dump a ton of money into a cart I got for $900! It could just as easily end up being used to run around our 2 acres of grass, get the mail and haul the garbage cans, be used as an actual golf cart (golf course is across the road) etc. I figure I'm in for ~$600 for new batteries, whether they're 6V or 8V each. If I buy 8V then I need a 48V charger which sets me back another $300 it looks like, but what else??

Any advice is much appreciated,

Josh

[rib33024]

Welcome to BGW




you'll need a controller that can handle 48 volts, a solenoid for 48 volts, some new 4 ga battery cables or bigger, and a HD forward/reverse switch

[cgtech]

Your stock controller has to be replaced anyway (to go 48v). Stock controller is 300a or less, with the possibility of a lift (bigger tires = more load on controller), a bigger controller would be a better investment. The route i would go is, get a 500a alltrax (it can do 48v), set it to 400a for use with stock motor, and have everything ready for any future upgrades.

[h20fow1er]

As mentioned – Batteries, charger, controller, solenoid, heavy duty FR switch, and 2 or 4 gauge cables depending on controller amperage. You might as well add the voltage meter while doing it.

The only real noticeable cost difference in building a 36 volt system that can handle a heavier load (lift, tires, etc) and converting to a 48 system is really the cost of the charger. None of the stock electronics will handle 48 volts.

Batteries (36 or 48 volt) – $700
Reversing solenoid – $250 (or HD switch for $175)
Cables – $150 - $250
$36 or $48 volt Controller / solenoid package - $450 - $550 depending on controller amperage
48 volt Charger – $300

[mgray70]

I recommend the Alltrax SPM 400 or 500. Depending on what you decide. They are top notch!

[mgray70]

My avatar is a 94 medalist that I switch the body out with the txt body.

[Josh61513]

Thanks for the feedback and advice, everyone.

We need to decide if we will want to use our cart on the course across the road or not, since I doubt they will allow lifted/knobby tire carts on the course and it sounds like the conversion to 48V is fairly expensive.

Just to clarify-it sounds like the 36V motor is OK with 48V?

If I pursue the conversion to 48V I would like to do it as inexpensively as possible for now. I understand why a new charger, controller, and solenoid is required. But why the "HD F/R switch"? Isn't that just a mechanical type connector that controls polarity? And the battery cables themselves, can I use the old ones with the understanding that I might get a little voltage drop under high loads (no safety issue)? $150-$250 seems extremely expensive, I know what 2 and 4 gauge stranded cable goes for.

Thanks,
Josh

[CedzGo]

Originally Posted by mgray70

I recommend the Alltrax SPM 400 or 500. Depending on what you decide. They are top notch!

[h20fow1er]

Its not the volts... its the amps!

The stock cart should have 6 gauge cables on it now. That is fine for all stock components rather they be 36 or 48 volt. A stock controller is only going to run 225 Amps. That's enough power to carry 2 people + gear through a golf course.

If you add resistance ( larger tires, back seat, or both) you need to up the amount of amperage coming out of the controller. With more amperage, you'll need larger cables. I think the rule of thumb is anything under 400 Amps is 4 gauge while anything over is 2 gauge. Cable prices vary on who and where you get them from, or of you make them yourself. You can spend as much or as little as you like, but they will need to be upgraded otherwise heat will be an issue.

The FNR switch was also not designed to be used with high amps. Thus, when throwing more amps through it heat becomes an enemy. You can change out the cam and save some money, but remember you still have a 21 year old part.

[h20fow1er]

As a comparison – and by no means am I saying my path is the way to go.

I stayed at 36 volts as my batteries were only 2 years old when I got it. I added a rear seat and hauled kids (6-7 years old) around it with no problem. I added a lift and larger tires. It did fine on the flat streets around the neighborhood. But it took a while to get to speed. It was slower than walking speed going up a hill to the local KOA. It took 2 weeks for me to decide to throw more power at it.

I then added a 500 Amp controller programmed to 400 amps, solenoid, and 4 gauge cables. I ran it fine for 3 years without any issues. The FNR switch was warm a couple times, but never failed. I knew that was my weakest point. I accepted that I may need to replace it at any time.

It sat for 2 years as the batteries needed to be replaced and it was low on my priorities at the time. Since it is time to replace batteries, I am making the 48 volt jump and doing the FNR switch at the same time. This process cost me more as now I have 2 solenoids, nut it was spread out over 2 different upgrades.

Don’t forget, you are able to get larger street / turf tires if the golf course is the concern.