Another No-Go Ezgo, here's some numbers...

[labatt50]

Hello All,

I read as many of threads on this as possible already. If anyone can help it will be much appreciated. I'm now stumped. I have some thoughts but would like to hear the opinions and Ideas of those more qualified.

-2006 TXT, Altrax 4855, 48V, 400/1000 sol, 2g wires, HD F/R Switch, D&D motor, 6" lift, 22's.

-I swapped motors with another, I still have same symptoms.
-Checked all wires and connections.
-took out F/R Switch, cleaned up & checked and re-installed.
-Checked ITS positioning. (ordered and new ITS after tests but same result? and same numbers).
-Checked four pin connector.
-I don't know how to test or bypass reed switch. I really don't know much about it.

Upon pushing pedal:
- Solinoide clicks, 4 green blinks then steady green on controller.
-every once in a while like this morning after charging last night, I pushed the pedal with my hand, it turned on and the wheels rotated for about 10 seconds. (buggy is jacked up stand) then stopped.

Diagnostic numbers from tests located in the "stickies". I cut and pasted parts of the testing procedure:

Battery pack - 51.7
+ probe on solenoid large post -51.7
+ probe on controller side post of solenoid 47.3


ITS - INDUCTIVE THROTTLE SENSOR


With "jumper wire":
AT THE SIX PIN CONNECTOR OF THE CONTROLLER
-the (+) probe on the red wire terminal of the connector: 51.7

-the (+) probe on the black wire terminal of the connector. 9.4V***(i ordered a new ITS sensor because of this reading)

-When I separate the 6 pin connector between the pedal box and the controller that's located on the passenger's side of the battery compartment.
-Voltage goes to 13.86 on black throttle wire at controller.


RECONNECT the 6 pin connector.
Place the (+) probe on the white wire terminal of the six pin connector.
-.6/.7v. When pedal is depressed to activate micr switch. When pedal is depressed to floor, reading goes to 1.1 momentarily then drops back down to .6/.7v.

Depress the pedal slowly. The reading should be 0.45 - 0.53 volts just as the micro-switch is activated.
Depress the pedal slowly to full throttle.
As you depress the peddle the reading should move smoothly to about 1.5 volts.
If the reading is incorrect, The Throttle Sensor is defective.

REMOVE THE JUMPER WIRE AND (-) PROBE

CHECKING CONTROLLER OUTPUT

(-) probe to M- terminal, (+) probe to B+ terminal - 0 volts

Slowly depress accelerator pedal - nothing, 0volts


If the voltage is not at or near battery voltage, replace the controller.

Additional ITS test:
8.98v between throttle pins at controller when peddle is pushed just enough to activate switch
5.6v between throttle pins when peddle is pushed to floor.

Thanks All if your able to reply and help,

-

[JohnnieB]

The tests in the stickies are for a stock series controller, so the ITS voltage tests do not apply to an AXE controller, and there may be others.

You said you are getting 51.7V at the pack and 51.7 at the battery side terminal on the controller.

The 47.3V on the controller side terminal is in the ballpark, but what is the voltage there after the solenoid clicks? (Should be pack voltage)

----------
The symptoms you describe indicate the solenoid contacts might not be closing.
It nay be clicking, but the contacts might be burnt or jammed open

That doesn't seem very likely since it is a super-duty solenoid, but anything is possible.

Disconnect the pre-charge resistor and see if the symptoms change. (The tires will turn a few time due to the charge that was stored on the filter capacitors via the pre-charge resistor.)

[labatt50]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

The tests in the stickies are for a stock series controller, so the ITS voltage tests do not apply to an AXE controller, and there may be others.

You said you are getting 51.7V at the pack and 51.7 at the battery side terminal on the controller.

The 47.3V on the controller side terminal is in the ballpark, but what is the voltage there after the solenoid clicks? (Should be pack voltage)

----------
The symptoms you describe indicate the solenoid contacts might not be closing.
It nay be clicking, but the contacts might be burnt or jammed open

That doesn't seem very likely since it is a super-duty solenoid, but anything is possible.

Disconnect the pre-charge resistor and see if the symptoms change. (The tires will turn a few time due to the charge that was stored on the filter capacitors via the pre-charge resistor.)

Thanks Johnnie,

To clarify,
51.7 at pack, 51.7 at battery side of solenoid, 47.3 at controller side of solenoid

The pre-charge resistor? explain more please

[labatt50]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

The tests in the stickies are for a stock series controller, so the ITS voltage tests do not apply to an AXE controller, and there may be others.

You said you are getting 51.7V at the pack and 51.7 at the battery side terminal on the controller.

The 47.3V on the controller side terminal is in the ballpark, but what is the voltage there after the solenoid clicks? (Should be pack voltage)

----------
The symptoms you describe indicate the solenoid contacts might not be closing.
It nay be clicking, but the contacts might be burnt or jammed open

That doesn't seem very likely since it is a super-duty solenoid, but anything is possible.

Disconnect the pre-charge resistor and see if the symptoms change. (The tires will turn a few time due to the charge that was stored on the filter capacitors via the pre-charge resistor.)

I left this out of last reply:

On the controller side of the solenoid reading is 47.1v, when pedal is depressed and solenoid clicks voltage goes to 51.5 (or pack voltage).

[labatt50]

identified the pre-charge resistor on solenoid....

[labatt50]

Originally Posted by labatt50

identified the pre-charge resistor on solenoid....

no change as a result of removing the pre-charge resistor.

[labatt50]

Can anyone confirm? can the stock ezgo controller handle 48v? I'm thinking of swapping controllers quick to see if thats the issue.

[cgtech]

A stock 36v controller cannot do 48v. I did it on my 36v ezgo Marathon , Not TXT, for about a month, it lost 99% power (dont do it to yours, not the same controller, it will be really "steaming mad", and never play nice again). There are ways to "cheat it" to do 42v, but those ways arent gonna help you get to the root of your problem. If you want to do it as a test, disconnect enough batteries to get it nearer to 36v for testing. If the reed switch is the problem the solenoid will never click, and the energy meter (if present) will not light up. If you think the reed switch may be the trouble, disconnect the smallest wire from the charge port and check the charge port side of the wire for pack voltage, if none present, hook the other side of the wire to the battery pack main positive terminal. If it runs now, the reed switch is bad (the cart can now run while tbe charger is connected, be careful).

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by labatt50

.................
Upon pushing pedal:
- Solinoide clicks, 4 green blinks then steady green on controller.
-every once in a while like this morning after charging last night, I pushed the pedal with my hand, it turned on and the wheels rotated for about 10 seconds. (buggy is jacked up stand) then stopped.
...............

Unless the above symptoms have changed, the reed switch, along with the rest of the solenoid activation and controller power-up circuitry, is working.

Therefore, the problem is in the high current circuit.

The high current circuit consists of:
1. The battery pack.
2. Heavy gauge cables (the are at least 13 of them in a series drive cart)
3. Solenoid's high current contacts.
4. F/R switch's high current contacts.
5. Motor.
6. Controller.

So far #3 has been more or less eliminated. (IE: Getting pack voltage on controller side terminal after solenoid clicks.)

The symptom that the wheels turned for a few seconds and stopped, points to bad solenoid contacts, so that possibility was at the top of my list of suspects. That wasn't it, so let's do the half-split technique and take a look about in the middle of the high current circuit and see which way what we find there tells us to look.

Connect your voltmeter leads to the B- and B+ terminals on the controller.

Press the pedal and after the solenoid clicks, you should get full pack voltage.
Watch the meter to see what to voltage does as the tires turn for a few seconds and stop.

If it drops be more than a few volts, the problem is in the battery, cables or F/R contacts, and solenoid contacts are still a possibility.

If the voltage remains fairly constant, the problem is in controller (including ITS issues) or motor.

[labatt50]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Unless the above symptoms have changed, the reed switch, along with the rest of the solenoid activation and controller power-up circuitry, is working.

Therefore, the problem is in the high current circuit.

The high current circuit consists of:
1. The battery pack.
2. Heavy gauge cables (the are at least 13 of them in a series drive cart)
3. Solenoid's high current contacts.
4. F/R switch's high current contacts.
5. Motor.
6. Controller.

So far #3 has been more or less eliminated. (IE: Getting pack voltage on controller side terminal after solenoid clicks.)

The symptom that the wheels turned for a few seconds and stopped, points to bad solenoid contacts, so that possibility was at the top of my list of suspects. That wasn't it, so let's do the half-split technique and take a look about in the middle of the high current circuit and see which way what we find there tells us to look.

Connect your voltmeter leads to the B- and B+ terminals on the controller.

Press the pedal and after the solenoid clicks, you should get full pack voltage.
Watch the meter to see what to voltage does as the tires turn for a few seconds and stop.

If it drops be more than a few volts, the problem is in the battery, cables or F/R contacts, and solenoid contacts are still a possibility.

If the voltage remains fairly constant, the problem is in controller (including ITS issues) or motor.

Pulled the controller out this morning and plugged it into the computer. There was no crazy settings to my knowledge and I was able to change the configuration if I wanted to. I put controller back in the buggy.

At the B- and B+ terminals of the controller its 47V and when the peddle is pressed it goes to pack voltage - 51.5

I did already swap a motor (another one I have) in and out and no difference.

I did not put buggy on charge last night, and therfore it has not "turned the wheels" at all this morning. Seems to only do it after a charge.

Batteries are all measuring 8.6v (trojan T875 x 6)