Another No-Go Ezgo, here's some numbers...

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by labatt50

If I wanted to make sure it was my controller causing the problem, could I take a battery out of the loop (yes 6 x 8Volt) and go to 40V or 32V? I would do this while the cart is jacked up just to see if it works? If so, would I have to use the stock solenoid as well?

I mis-typed. I corrected it to 40V.

The Super-Duty solenoid Scotty (Carts Unlimited) sells, work at 36V to 48V, I've ran it at 36V and 42V, but don't know if it'll go down to 32V (about 34V if the batteries are 8.49V each).

[labatt50]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

I mis-typed. I corrected it to 40V.

The Super-Duty solenoid Scotty (Carts Unlimited) sells, work at 36V to 48V, I've ran it at 36V and 42V, but don't know if it'll go down to 32V (about 34V if the batteries are 8.49V each).

I found out today if you attach the M- with B- to the B- post on an AXE controller, you bypass the controller. This helped me confirm the controller was bad and everything else was working perfect. ITS, F/R switch, solenoid, cables, reed switch. So no need to hook the old curtis controller and remove a battery! I hit the pedal and the wheels spun!

Therefor....I guess I'm in the market for a new controller...

JohnnieB, I know your well versed on battery talk. What would 6 12v batteries give me over 6 8v and vice versa (besides 48v vs 72v)? Run time, speed, torque?The reason I ask is if I'm purchasing another controller I could look 24-72v to give me and option to upgrade in a couple years when my batteries are ready for the grave yard. I'd like to stick with 6 batteries or go lithium.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by labatt50

I found out today if you attach the M- with B- to the B- post on an AXE controller, you bypass the controller. This helped me confirm the controller was bad and everything else was working perfect. ITS, F/R switch, solenoid, cables, reed switch. So no need to hook the old curtis controller and remove a battery! I hit the pedal and the wheels spun!

Therefor....I guess I'm in the market for a new controller...

JohnnieB, I know your well versed on battery talk. What would 6 12v batteries give me over 6 8v and vice versa (besides 48v vs 72v)? Run time, speed, torque?The reason I ask is if I'm purchasing another controller I could look 24-72v to give me and option to upgrade in a couple years when my batteries are ready for the grave yard. I'd like to stick with 6 batteries or go lithium.

Fortunately, it didn't weld the solenoid contacts closed.

The run-time for a 48V pack of T-890 (8V- 190AH) batteries and a 72V pack of T-1275 (12V 150AH) batteries is roughly the same.

Theoretically, the 72V pack will give you a 50% increase in both speed and torque over a 48V pack, but in reality, it will probably be a bit less than 50%.

[labatt50]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Fortunately, it didn't weld the solenoid contacts closed.

The run-time for a 48V pack of T-890 (8V- 190AH) batteries and a 72V pack of T-1275 (12V 150AH) batteries is roughly the same.

Theoretically, the 72V pack will give you a 50% increase in both speed and torque over a 48V pack, but in reality, it will probably be a bit less than 50%.

Interesting on speed and torque.

Lol, ya I guess thats a good thing for the solenoid and my back pocket

If i'm looking at controllers, whats the most amps a 48V and 72V pack could theoretically give to a cart in need?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by labatt50

...............
If i'm looking at controllers, whats the most amps a 48V and 72V pack could theoretically give to a cart in need?

Not sure what you are asking.

The batteries themselves will produce something like 5 to 10 times their AH rating for a few moments before they self destruct.

When a series wound DC motor is stalled (Zero RPM), the amp draw is limited to the applied voltage divided by the Ohmic value of the windings, plus the Ohmic value of the cables, contacts and connections in the series loop.

Once the motor starts spinning, the max amp draw is limited by the dynamic impedance of the motor windings.

[labatt50]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Not sure what you are asking.

The batteries themselves will produce something like 5 to 10 times their AH rating for a few moments before they self destruct.

When a series wound DC motor is stalled (Zero RPM), the amp draw is limited to the applied voltage divided by the Ohmic value of the windings, plus the Ohmic value of the cables, contacts and connections in the series loop.

Once the motor starts spinning, the max amp draw is limited by the dynamic impedance of the motor windings.

I guess what I'm asking is: purchase a 500amp or 650amp controller? (going with a 72v controller gives me the option to stay at 48v or convert to higher voltage at a later date).If I'm using this as an off road buggy for hunting, could a 48 or 72v pack ever test the limits of this controller in terms of amp rating? Would I be limited by the controller or put the controller at risk? According to Altrax, this is just bad luck that this happened to the controller (plus it's no longer under warranty). I've only had my current controller (AXE 4855) 3 years, I definitely can't afford to buy a new controller every 3 years. I have a tons of hills around here and can always use more torque, I hate to think is was something I'd did that resulted in the death of my 4855.

[cgtech]

Still not sure how effectively wiring the motor directly to the solenoid diagnoses all the circuits in the system and condemns the controller, but, hope your right. Hey, at least you know the solenoid circuit works.

[labatt50]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Still not sure how effectively wiring the motor directly to the solenoid diagnoses all the circuits in the system and condemns the controller, but, hope your right. Hey, at least you know the solenoid circuit works.

I'm not sure either, the tech for altrax suggested it. Apparently it removes the controller out of the equation. Maybe it was the diagnostics of the situation.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by labatt50

I'm not sure either, the tech for altrax suggested it. Apparently it removes the controller out of the equation. Maybe it was the diagnostics of the situation.

FWIW: It was stated in the first post in this thread that the solenoid clicked and LED on the controller blinked four time and went to steady green. Then the voltages given in Post #14, indicated the voltage between B- and M- did not decrease and that the ITS signal was in the ballpark.

Those two sets of information indicate the control element (MOSFETs which are physically located between B- and M-) was not passing current to the motor even though they were being told to do so by the ITS signal.

From my point of view, connecting the B- and M- cables on the same terminal (Bypassing the MOSFETs, which is potentially dangerous) is a redundant proof that the controller is bad, but it is an effective demonstration.

[labatt50]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

FWIW: It was stated in the first post in this thread that the solenoid clicked and LED on the controller blinked four time and went to steady green. Then the voltages given in Post #14, indicated the voltage between B- and M- did not decrease and that the ITS signal was in the ballpark.

Those two sets of information indicate the control element (MOSFETs which are physically located between B- and M-) was not passing current to the motor even though they were being told to do so by the ITS signal.

From my point of view, connecting the B- and M- cables on the same terminal (Bypassing the MOSFETs, which is potentially dangerous) is a redundant proof that the controller is bad, but it is an effective demonstration.

lol thanks JohnnieB

Thanks again for your help in this thread, I don't know how you guys are able to respond to so many peoples questions. Your greatly appreciated!