New Batteries, Low Drive Time

[NoleFan4Ever]

It arced because there is a draw and when you landed the cable it completed the current (energy) circuit. Do you have have the Run/Toe toggle switch under the seat? If so, flip it to "Toe" and then reland the cable.

[Sergio]

Make sure the Tow/Run switch is on Tow.

If You have a voltage converter, the spark is caused by the capacitors inside the voltage converter charging.

What I do on my cart is to use an incandescent light bulb (60w or so) and run it in series with the cable for a few seconds.

Just stand the light bulb on the battery post and touch the cable on the threads of the light bulb, a 60w light bulb is about 240Ω and it will charge the capacitors without a spark.

Wait about 10 seconds and You can then just put the cable on the battery post without a spark.

[whit71]

Make sure the run/tow switch is in tow, when hooking up the negative to the battery. In your picture, on the first battery on the right, it looks like a "C" stamped on the battery post, is it? and if so is there a number beside it?

[Wingsy]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Make sure the Tow/Run switch is on Tow.

If You have a voltage converter, the spark is caused by the capacitors inside the voltage converter charging.

What I do on my cart is to use an incandescent light bulb (60w or so) and run it in series with the cable for a few seconds.

Just stand the light bulb on the battery post and touch the cable on the threads of the light bulb, a 60w light bulb is about 240Ω and it will charge the capacitors without a spark.

Wait about 10 seconds and You can then just put the cable on the battery post without a spark.

Makes sense, but do you know how long it's been since I've even SEEN an incandescent bulb? :) But I do have resistors so I'll use that. Are the caps in the inverter still in the circuit with the switch in TOW position?

[Wingsy]

Originally Posted by whit71

Make sure the run/tow switch is in tow, when hooking up the negative to the battery. In your picture, on the first battery on the right, it looks like a "C" stamped on the battery post, is it? and if so is there a number beside it?

No, no "C". No nothing.

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by Wingsy

Makes sense, but do you know how long it's been since I've even SEEN an incandescent bulb? :) But I do have resistors so I'll use that. Are the caps in the inverter still in the circuit with the switch in TOW position?

LOL, I kept a couple of incandescent bulbs in my garage, no crappy CFLs, they were all trashed when I replaced them with LEDs.

Yes, the voltage converter is/should be directly connected to the pack positive and Controller B- provided accessory connection, so it is not controlled by the Tow/Run switch.

[Wingsy]

Well that's a relief. Cart still works. Usually a big spark like that is a sign that you're about to have a bad day.

Switched to TOW. Connected a 19 ohm resistor between terminal & battery post for a few seconds then connected the terminal. No spark.

Switched to RUN, tested cart. Sprayed that stuff all over all terminals. Connected charger. 3-second delay, then it switched on. 10 seconds later it switched off for a second then back on. Same as always. Humming along now at 15 amps. I'm usually up at all weird hours of the night with my sleeping disorder so I'll be checking it as time goes by. At 2:30AM it will have been on for 12 hours and I bet the cells will be boiling like Marcy's stew.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by Wingsy

Well that's a relief. Cart still works. Usually a big spark like that is a sign that you're about to have a bad day.

Switched to TOW. Connected a 19 ohm resistor between terminal & battery post for a few seconds then connected the terminal. No spark.

Switched to RUN, tested cart. Sprayed that stuff all over all terminals. Connected charger. 3-second delay, then it switched on. 10 seconds later it switched off for a second then back on. Same as always. Humming along now at 15 amps. I'm usually up at all weird hours of the night with my sleeping disorder so I'll be checking it as time goes by. At 2:30AM it will have been on for 12 hours and I bet the cells will be boiling like Marcy's stew.

Then the OBC is performing as it should. That is exactly what should have happened. Now let it get the 16 hours charge and time out if that happens. Then if not fully charged, unplug it, wait a minute and then replug it and monitor it a little closer this time as you will either get to full charge or your batteries can no longer get there in which case you will know what to do...

[Wingsy]

Shouldn't I get to full charge on this cycle? I started off with having it on the charger for around 12 hrs already and the pack was at 58v. It's been charging for 3 hrs now and it's still at 58v. And, the temp outside is over 90.

All cells are boiling a little faster than a cold Coke 5 seconds after opening it. I'll keep watching it but my money is on 59v tops. (BTW, I'm using a very accurate DVM.)

[Sergio]

Good news it is not boiling, that is just hydrogen and oxygen that is released as part of the charging chemical reaction.

It has a few beneficial effects such as mixing the electrolyte which prevents stratification as Sulfuric acid is heavier than water and has a tendency to sink to the bottom of the cells.

It also scrubs the cell plates from impurities that can be introduced by the water added.

Since the OBC was reset, the previous charging cycles are not being taken in consideration, read this post about the process:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1249025