Club car precedent ds Iq won't move...

[dracor]

Batteries are fine... solenoid clicks in forward and reverse... seems like cart wheels wants to go in reverse while placed in forward..alltrax 500 DS lights are green while in forward and pedal depressed but blinks 5 times while in reverse and depressed... any thoughts???

[NoleFan4Ever]

Bumping this back up in case someone has seen this.....

[Aflyer]

Is it an XCT controller, or an SR?

And what color did it blink, Red or Green?

Here are the blink codes and error messages if you are working with an SR controller

SR error codes are different than the AXE/DCX alarm codes in that they will
flash Green and Red, instead of just Red. 1 Green and 1 Red LED Flash =
1 Green and 2 Red LED Flash =
1 Green and 3 Red LED Flash =
1 Green and 4 Red LED Flash = 1 Green and 5 Red LED Flash = 1 Green and 6 Red LED Flash = 2 Green and 1 Red LED Flash = 2 Green and 2 Red LED Flash = 2 Green and 3 Red LED Flash = 2 Green and 4 Red LED Flash = 2 Green and 5 Red LED Flash = 2 Green and 6 Red LED Flash = 3 Green and 1 Red LED Flash =
3 Green and 2 Red LED Flash =
Short Circuit
Battery Under Voltage Battery Over Voltage
M- Over temperature
Bus Bar Over temperature Pre-charge Failure
Under Temp
Not Used
High Throttle Over range High Throttle Under range Low Throttle Over range Low Throttle Under range Uncalibrated throttle
Bad Variable Set Loaded

Aflyer

[NoleFan4Ever]

I think it will be an XCT model since it is an IQ cart. (Of course it may be an older style too...)

[dracor]

DCX500 Alltrax controller....when pedal depressed in forward light stays green but cart doesn't move....when pedal depressed while in reverse the green light turns to red and blinks 5 times.... Any ideas?

[NoleFan4Ever]

Ah-Oh! That is "Open Field". Better go check that motor out and everything connecting to it...

[dracor]

open field error is similar to the "blue screen of death' on my pc...am I correct? should I take the motor off to be tested for proper function and is the controller fried?

[NoleFan4Ever]

Continuity Test it first. Place the Run/Tow switch in "Tow" and then remove the pack negative. Then disconnect all the cables from the motor. (Be sure to double wrench every motor post/stud when breaking them lose or you may break them off. Spray them down with penetrating oil prior to doing it)

Get out your DVM and set it to the Continuity setting and:
- Test between A1 and A2 (Beep)
- Test between F1 and F2 (Beep)
- Test between A1 and F1 (No Beep)
- Test between A1 to Motor Case (No Beep)
- Test between F1 to Motor Case (No Beep)

Now flip your meter to Ohms/Resistance and:
- Test between F1 and F2 and you should get 0.8 to 1.2 Ohms

If all those are correct as stated above then you can test the motor:
Jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to F1 and then a jumper from A2 to F2. Connect 12 volts (+) to A1/F1 and 12 volts (-) to A2/F2. (You can swap F1 and F2 jumpers to change motor rotation) You may want to have a disconnect switch in-line with the power supply as some do and some do not....

And remember that allowing a motor to spin at high RPM's can cause catastrophic failure....

[dracor]

so i can assume if the motor doesn't spin its beyond hope and if the continuity test is sound controller should be good? if motor needs replacing is there a high torque motor recommended compatible with dcx500? Thank you for your time by the way....

[NoleFan4Ever]

The continuity test is just to make sure you still have a complete circuit in the field and armature, thus the "beep". And then you do not have a ground between them or to the case, which is why the last 3 tests should "not beep"

These tests are all just for the motor.... If the problem is identified here, then chances are your controller is fine.

Check Revolution Golf Cars and Carts Unlimited for the Admiral MOT-A4. That is a high torque sepex motor.