81- 01 club car conversion

[Raystar57]

This is normal except for the controller side cable will be a little lower.
Since you say the M1 on controller has voltage that is correct
but that does not mean the controller can actually pass the current required to turn the motor.

Test the motor as you plan to do.

Does the solenoid click when pedal is activated?
If it does not click, it could be in a welded closed position.
Do you get the 48V at the solenoid small terminals when pedal is activated?

[JordanB367]

Originally Posted by Raystar57

This is normal except for the controller side cable will be a little lower.
Since you say the M1 on controller has voltage that is correct
but that does not mean the controller can actually pass the current required to turn the motor.

Test the motor as you plan to do.

Does the solenoid click when pedal is activated?
If it does not click, it could be in a welded closed position.
Do you get the 48V at the solenoid small terminals when pedal is activated?

Thanks. I am getting really to go out and check the motor with 12v from my truck. The solenoid does click with the pedal. I will check the small terminals when I go out and get back either tonight or tomorrow.

[JordanB367]

Motor tested good in both directions using a 12v battery. Also the solenoid is good with slightly less voltage on the secound large terminal untill throttle pressed then full voltage on 3 of the 4 terminals. I ordered a controller from Scottyb this morning. It's a shot in the dark but reading through the Curtis manual on the controller the only thing I noticed out of place is that m- terminal has power at all times and according to the manual it should have zero at rest and raise slowly as the go pedal is pressed. I'm thinking it's got to be it.