Precedent All Out Upgrade to Street Legal

[mohms]

Originally Posted by CP241

Reading this, If it were me, I would opt for a 12V marine "house battery" so you're not drawing on your main pack reserve while cranking the tunes. It's not hard to get a small 12V charger and bring it along. I have a little optima 12V 4A charger that works very well, and doesn't take up a lot of room.

This is why boats have a house battery, so when you're in the party cove doing what you do, your main batteries still have enough juice to get you back home :)

But that's just my opinion

You're seriously making me reconsider my reducer! Where did you mount the battery, and how do you access it for recharging?

[mohms]

After considering the pros and cons of a 12v aux battery, I've decided to just go with the reducer I already have. It's a 30 amp unit and should handle all the accessories I have planned.

That being said, I've also decided to swap the body kit 18A reducer with the nicer 30A. Of course the wires are slightly different so I have a lot of thinking to do on how to tap into the kit harness. I've cut the kit reducer connectors off and will wire them to the 30A reducer pigtail. The only problem is the 30A has:
+ battery input (yellow)
+ switched input (green)
- battery input (black)
+ switched out (red)
+ constant out (blue - memory wire, will not use this)

While the 18A kit reducer has:
+ battery input (red)
- battery input (balck)
+ switched input (red/white)
+ out for lights (yellow)
- out for lights (black)

I believe the kit harness pulls from the solenoid on the + switched input red/white wire instead of from the key switch. I'm not sure if this will work if I connect the 30A reducer green input switch wire to the red/white harness switch wire input. We'll see.

[mohms]

It took all night but I finally figured out how to hack into the body kit wiring harness to wire a three position switch with the Reliance reducer, where it powers the 12v fuse block in positions 2 and 3, but only powers the golf cart ignition in a single position. This was important to me since there are kids EVERYWHERE at the campground (including mine), and if I want to run the radio I don't have to worry about a youngin smashing the GO pedal on accident.

Here is my rat's nest LOL. Some of these wires are temporary as I was testing a lot of different wiring combinations... trail and error is how I roll. Tomorrow after work I'll tidy it up and then get to mounting and wiring the new dash accessories.

[mohms]

I would imagine someone somewhere like me will try this mess with this Rchamp body kit and the Reliance or Madjax reducer, so here is how I wired it:

Note that I cut the two connectors off of the stock reducer, and wired to them just like installing a car receiver with an aftermarket harness to plug into OEM connectors (kind of).

Switch:
Position 1 to green OEM wire that runs to position #2 on OEM key switch.
Position 2 to red/white key switch wire in body kit harness
Position 3 to green switched input wire on Reliance/Madjax reducer

Reducer input
Reliance 48v yellow + input to harness red 48v +
Reliance black - input to harness black -
Reliance 48v green switched input to switch position #3

Reducer output
Red Switched 12v + to yellow harness wire (headlights/taillights) AND to fuse block
Blue Constant 12v + NOT USED (though I MIGHT wire this to a separate fuse block for some LED glow lighting, so I can run the lights with the key switch in the off position.)

And lastly, black wire from 2 pin cut off stock reducer connector wired to common 12v/48v negative buss (negative buss wired directly to 48v battery pack -).

All the body kit accessories are working (lights, blinkers, horn, etc.). It should be pretty straight forward wiring up the 12v accessories from here, the hard part is figured out (except for tidying up wire management).

[mohms]

After a minor setback with a broken switch and a fried stereo receiver I now am "done but" with the wiring. "Done but" as in done but a couple minor things to finish. One of those being installing the LED underglow lighting. I bought a kit that is for a car and didn't realize the LED strips are 3' long, and there are 4 of them. They are waterproof so I really don't want to cut them...

As for the original stereo what a nightmare. I wired everything up and turned the key. I smelled plastic burning then fuses started popping (both the blade fused memory wire on the constant side and the in-line fuse on the switched side). YIKES. The dash switch I had the stereo attached to literally fell apart, and the radio was burning hot to the touch. After a few hours of checking and re-checking wiring, and a handful of fuses later, I realized the stereo had an internal short. Not sure what the real cause was, but the new stereo and switch works just fine.

PICS OR IT DIDN'T HAPPEN:

(Messy workbench, I know)


(Rats nest is about as clean as my skills will permit. Relays for USB charger and stereo... the body kit harness has a built in relay for the lights)


(pack voltage meter, switch plate not screwed down yet... "done but")


(dual usb charging port with voltage readout from reducer)


Not pictured is a separate fuse block powered by the constant 12v reducer wire. I am using this for the stereo memory wire and the underglow LED lights. I want to be able to use the LED underglow lights without the ignition key in the acc or on position.

[mohms]

It's been a while so my apologies for digging up my old thread. I forgot to upload pictures of the finished cart back early last summer when I finished it. A build thread should have the completed project, right?
(I've added seat belts and a lighted license plate bracket since these pics were taken. It is now street legal in my state.)

[PearlPack]

I have the RChamp kit in Pearl white...hence my name.

[ClubCar86]

Well done, 1st time I've seen that front end. Looks sharp!

[Nsane]

Nice job!

[jakesnake27]

That's a sharp looking cart!