i2 Excel...Solenoid Engages and Disengages when Throttle Pressed.

[orangebeachbum]

I just registered for the forum but have used it for several years as a silent viewer via google searches. It has been a wonderful source of info. I hoping someone can help me with a particular problem I'm now having. And, now that I'm a member will contribute in the future.

The cart is a Precedent 2012 (PH). The batteries are nearly new with pack voltage of 51+. The cart electrical and drive are stock. I have changed the MOCR4 and solenoid. The MOCR due to surging (successful fix) and the solenoid due to the current problem.

This problem has developed over time and has progressively gotten more problematic. When the throttle is pressed, FNR in forward, the solenoid will quickly click twice (engage and then disengage). If you pump the throttle several times, the solenoid will sometimes engage and hold and the cart runs OK until the throttle is released and the solenoid disengages. At that time you start over and must pump the throttle several times until the solenoid will engage and stay engaged.

There are times when the solenoid will not engage at all when the cart has been resting for a period of time. Usually, it will "wake up" after pumping the throttle several times and the solenoid will immediately double click. After pumping the throttle again, the solenoid will eventually engage and hold.

With the FNR in reverse, the same thing happens, but when the solenoid double clicks, the reverse alarm will stop sounding. The alarm does not start again, until the throttle is pumped until the solenoid will engage and hold.

In troubleshooting, I have jumped the FNR switch and the MOCR microswitch (2 wire connector). In both of these tests, I have the same problem. The cart has the OBC and the charger functions like new and the charger lockout is functioning. I have reset the OBC (disconnect pack negative for 10 min) with no beneficial results. I installed a new precharge resistor on the solenoid. I believe it was 240 ohm.

I have reviewed the wiring diagram and it appears the problem may be with the controller, Curtis 1515-5201. Based on the diagram and info from this forum, it appears the solenoid and reverse alarm are driven by outputs from the controller.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Should I replace the controller? Was planning to purchase the Curtis 1515S-5350.

[Sergio]

Assumptions:

1. The cart is not totally loosing power (bad tow/run switch).
2. You have not altered (or added to) the pack negative cable or where it goes through the OBC.

If that is the case then the OBC is the only other device that can prevent the reverse buzzer from making a sound.

Pressing the pedal is one of the ways to wake up the OBC if it goes to sleep.

I would disconnect the OBC 6-pin connector and add a jumper (a big paper clip is the right gauge) between the Blue and the White wires on the 6-pin connector that is on the harness side.

Test if it works fine with the jumper in place.

PS: If the Controller is the issue, buy an Alltrax XCT Controller instead of another Curtis.

[orangebeachbum]

Sergio,

Thanks for your response. Regarding your assumptions the run/tow is functioning correctly and the pack negative cable is intact with no modifications.

I disconnected the harness from the OBC and jumpered the white and blue contacts. It took about 3 minutes after jumper applied and got the reverse alarm (does this delay suggest something). However, I still get the solenoid quick double click (solenoid engages and disengages) when initially pushing the throttle. The reverse alarms stops when the solenoid disengages. Pumping the throttle will eventually get the solenoid to engage, alarm turns back on and wheels have power. Then when I let off the throttle and after solenoid disengages, the double click issue repeats. Pack voltage is 52 and I get 52 volts between controller side of the OBC (neg) and the battery side of the solenoid (pos).

Do you have any other ideas? Thanks, again.

[orangebeachbum]

I wanted to close this out.

I replaced the controller and everything came to life and is OK. Per the wiring diagram, the controller provides the final output to energize the coil side of the solenoid switch and back-up alarm. Since both of these were malfunctioning at the same time it became apparent the controller was the culprit. Problem solved.