Precedent gear oil - any benefit to synthetic?

[fstop]

Haven't found any specs for what the factory gear oil viscosity is or should be, but I'm considering changing it and I wonder if anyone has any experience using synthetic? (or thicker / thinner mineral oil for that matter...)

Which synthetic / grade did you use?

Any noticeable change in gear chatter / slop, etc?

Any reduction in friction / diff. housing temperature?

Any increase in cart speed from reduced friction in the gearbox?

It's probably an "oil is oil" thing in this case as long as a good quality and properly specd. oil is used, but wonder if anyone has any experience in using various products in the rear end gears, and any tips for filling amount, reducing mess in the process, etc...

Thanks!

[NoleFan4Ever]

I only use synthetics.

-22oz's of 85w/90 synthetic rear end grease. Mobil 1 or any good quality type will work fine.
-Jack it up, pull the fill plug which is up the side of the housing. Then pull the drain plug and drain. (check oil for any foreign material)
-Reinstall the drain plug, stick your manual $8 lube pump tube (from Advance Auto Parts) in the fill hole (do not attempt to use the vent hole), lower the cart back level and pump it until it reaches the threads of the fill hole. (22 ounces + or - will get you there)

Yes, I am a proponent of Synthetics. And it is not going to make any differences you are gonna feel right now, but it is better for longevity and breakdown.

[ClubCar86]

I ordered a quart of Synthetic Royal Purple MaxGear 75w90 off Amazon and changed it in a matter of 20 minutes. The manual hand pump is a must.

[Fairtax4me]

Club Car says to use 30w oil in the rear on electric carts.
I like 75w-90 synthetic gear oil because the viscosity is similar at low temperatures and it gives much better protection and longer life at normal operating temperatures.
Plain 80w-90 is a little too thick for an electric gear box unless you run it in a hot climate year round.
Don't need a hand pump if you get a bottle with one of the little cone nipples on top.

[fstop]

Good feedback and info - thanks to all.

Vent hole - what are you referring to?

I assume the drain bolt is at the bottom (red), and the fill bolt is blue - where is the vent you mention?

Is there a hand pump with the right threads to fit the top / fill hole or are you just inserting the pump hose outlet in there?

Has anyone noticed any difference in gear lash, clunking, whine etc... by using different oil?

I don't have cold temps where I am, and the cart is capable of high 30 mph speeds, but I don't run it at that speed often, and never off-road. Don't know if that would indicate going up or down a grade in viscosity?

Seems like it wouldn't be a high-stress application but then again I have no experience with these gear boxes and their specific issues.

[WalterM6]

I've added one more circle for the vent cap.

[Fairtax4me]

Originally Posted by fstop

Good feedback and info - thanks to all.

Vent hole - what are you referring to?

I assume the drain bolt is at the bottom (red), and the fill bolt is blue - where is the vent you mention?

Is there a hand pump with the right threads to fit the top / fill hole or are you just inserting the pump hose outlet in there?

Has anyone noticed any difference in gear lash, clunking, whine etc... by using different oil?

I don't have cold temps where I am, and the cart is capable of high 30 mph speeds, but I don't run it at that speed often, and never off-road. Don't know if that would indicate going up or down a grade in viscosity?

Seems like it wouldn't be a high-stress application but then again I have no experience with these gear boxes and their specific issues.

I've never noticed any difference in gear train noise. The motor makes more noise than the trans will. Maybe you would hear it if you went with a thinner oil, but thinner would not be good for a hot climate.

I don't see where anyone mentioned a vent hole?
The case vent is all the way at the top of the trans.
The fill hole is circled in the pics above, just fill with fluid until it starts to run out of the fill hole. Should take right about 2/3 of a quart.

[fstop]

Thanks all!

[ecpchris]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

I only use synthetics.

-22oz's of 85w/90 synthetic rear end grease. Mobil 1 or any good quality type will work fine.
-Jack it up, pull the fill plug which is up the side of the housing. Then pull the drain plug and drain. (check oil for any foreign material)
-Reinstall the drain plug, stick your manual $8 lube pump tube (from Advance Auto Parts) in the fill hole (do not attempt to use the vent hole), lower the cart back level and pump it until it reaches the threads of the fill hole. (22 ounces + or - will get you there)

Yes, I am a proponent of Synthetics. And it is not going to make any differences you are gonna feel right now, but it is better for longevity and breakdown.

Great info, thank you

[snoop911]

I have a question
I had to fix the drain plug threads on the casing and since I had the axel off the cart I filled the axel standing up since it was way easier by myself. I installed the axel back and after a few months I just realized today I put 30 oz ( I spilled a little from the 32. oz) versus the recommended 22 oz is that a major issue ?
It took all the fluid so I didn't even realize what I was doing at the time but it just hit me now