98DS solenoid issue

[Clarkwho]

98 DS - I have full power at the solenoid pos. post. I HAD full power at the two small solenoid posts when pedal depressed..solenoid clicked... reverse buzzer worked...no drive.

Now, after playing around with different tests and what not, I have NO power at the small solenoid posts and no solenoid clicking. Where does this power come from in order to trace? I have tried the wiring diagram, but am unclear on how to chase it back?

One thing, not sure it makes sense or is relevant...but when I pulled the dash to check the key, the pos. post touched frame..small spark and reverse buzzer went off for a few seconds then faded out? (yeah, I forgot to change it to tow)

[NoleFan4Ever]

If it is a '98 and you have a Tow switch you must have a Regen 2. Those controller are delicate, but you said the solenoid activation wires did not 48v when you tested with the Key On, in Fwd, and pedal depressed?

If not, test the Light Blue wire with the Red probe and Black on main pack Negative. See if you have pack voltage. Then check the Blue wire w/White strip with the Black probe and Red on main pack positive. See if you have pack voltage.

[Clarkwho]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

If it is a '98 and you have a Tow switch you must have a Regen 2. Those controller are delicate, but you said the solenoid activation wires did not 48v when you tested with the Key On, in Fwd, and pedal depressed?

If not, test the Light Blue wire with the Red probe and Black on main pack Negative. See if you have pack voltage. Then check the Blue wire w/White strip with the Black probe and Red on main pack positive. See if you have pack voltage.

So it seems I had the wires reversed on the solenoid...had the white/blue to the front (seat back) of the solenoid and the solid blue to the back of the solenoid..wiring diagram says opposite.

Changed them around, did the test and pack power to the blue white but not the solid blue...

Still no engagement of the solenoid.

[Clarkwho]

Tried the same test on my spare (untested) coil (this should read solenoid -not coil) and same readouts. I also have my working (last year in other cart) controller.

I have the obc bypassed, with the blue/white wires connected to each other...if that makes any difference?

When I jump the solenoid, I get zero movement out of the cart in forward, or reverse.

This particular cart I bought last year for parts, but ended up using as my kids broke up the body on my other one. It had died on the course for the previous owner..so, possibly the drive motor? (possible reason for it not moving when jumped solenoid - which is fine, as I have another in the working cart from last year) I just need to solenoid to engage to move to the next step..

[Clarkwho]

Not sure if I should add that I tested continuity through the FR rocker switch, as well as put in the one from the working cart, and did the same for the run/tow switch...Is continuity enough on the FR switch?

[Mooncarter]

Originally Posted by Clarkwho

Tried the same test on my spare (untested) coil and same readouts. I also have my working (last year in other cart) controller.

I have the obc bypassed, with the blue/white wires connected to each other...if that makes any difference?

When I jump the solenoid, I get zero movement out of the cart in forward, or reverse.

This particular cart I bought last year for parts, but ended up using as my kids broke up the body on my other one. It had died on the course for the previous owner..so, possibly the drive motor? (possible reason for it not moving when jumped solenoid - which is fine, as I have another in the working cart from last year) I just need to solenoid to engage to move to the next step..

You are losing me here. You should have 2 solenoids and a coil on one. What do you have?

[Clarkwho]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

If it is a '98 and you have a Tow switch you must have a Regen 2. Those controller are delicate, but you said the solenoid activation wires did not 48v when you tested with the Key On, in Fwd, and pedal depressed?

If not, test the Light Blue wire with the Red probe and Black on main pack Negative. See if you have pack voltage. Then check the Blue wire w/White strip with the Black probe and Red on main pack positive. See if you have pack voltage.

Something I did notice, when testing the blue wire to neg, if I step on the pedal, it goes up about .003mv on the meter..does this mean I am not getting (enough) signal from the vglide?

[Clarkwho]

Originally Posted by Mooncarter

You are losing me here. You should have 2 solenoids and a coil on one. What do you have?

sorry, yes, I have 2 solenoids on the cart, one with a coil. I have moved the large white wire on that one over to connect direct with the other white wire..

I am testing/working on the other solenoid.. and have a spare of those that I was also testing in the system.

[NoleFan4Ever]

If you have power to both the small lugs/posts, then you should hear a click when it closes in? Did you get that? If so, you should have full current across the solenoid large posts. If you place a meter across them while static, you should get ,5 to 1,5v below pack voltage. When it clicks/closes in, you should get 0v.

[Clarkwho]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

If you have power to both the small lugs/posts, then you should hear a click when it closes in? Did you get that? If so, you should have full current across the solenoid large posts. If you place a meter across them while static, you should get ,5 to 1,5v below pack voltage. When it clicks/closes in, you should get 0v.

That's the thing..I DID have power to both and the solenoid clicked. I did a few other things (as cart wouldn't move) and lost power to the small post
With the blue wire..have pack voltage to the blue/white