2005 Club Car DS 48V not moving still

[Sobeewan]

OK, I have 48 V at the controller, 48 V at the big spade terminal on solenoid, 48 V at the key, 48 V at the controller, 48V factory charger works through the OBC to fully charge the batteries, I have tried two different MCORs (one for a Precedent with connector adapters and the original, I have a new Curtis 1510 controller (but this same thing happened with the old Curtis 1510 controller). I have tried two different solenoids, no change. There is continuity on all the multiwire solder joints in the main harness and on the inline resistor from the main wiring harness.

All of these symptoms are the same both before and after I changed the controller module.
No motion of any kind, no reverse buzzer, the battery light on dashboard does not come on upon first pushing the pedal like it used to (I am assuming some kind of self test). Has 48V going in, but only about 16 going out (can't find any information on this particular issue but it seems like a huge drop).
Both of the MCOR testing shows around 1.5V when full throttle is applied, which should be somewhere around 4.5V I believe.
The solenoid negative lead has to be connected directly to battery pack negative terminal to activate. When activated, the solenoid sends out 48V to the controller, but there is no output on the blue or orange wires coming out of the controller to the motor when the throttle is engaged.
There is no voltage on pin number 5 on the controller, which supposedly means the OBC is bad. Tried resetting the OBC by both disconnecting the battery method, and the disconnect battery/throttle/neutral method, and the charger does charge the batteries and it does click when plugged in after a second or so.

I thought I had a bad controller which is why I replaced it, but after installing the new one with no change and all relevant main power wires having continuity and voltage except out of the controller and at pin 5 of the controller, I'm at a loss.

[Fairtax4me]

With no reverse buzzer operation I would check for 48v on the blue wire coming out of the OBC 6 pin connector. The blue wire feeds 48v to the controller for charger interlock and everything will be disabled if there is not voltage there.

Before you replaced the controller did you test the motor for short to ground? A shorted motor will damage the controller instantly. This will almost always result in the resistor across the two large posts of the solenoid getting very hot.

[sthreatt]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

With no reverse buzzer operation I would check for 48v on the blue wire coming out of the OBC 6 pin connector. The blue wire feeds 48v to the controller for charger interlock and everything will be disabled if there is not voltage there.

Before you replaced the controller did you test the motor for short to ground? A shorted motor will damage the controller instantly. This will almost always result in the resistor across the two large posts of the solenoid getting very hot.

I'm thinking the same thing. OBC has controller locked out.

[Sobeewan]

Fairtax4me, I'm not where I can test it right now, but if I don't have 48V from that wire out of the OBC, does that mean the OBC has failed and needs to be replaced or bypassed? And if I just splice in a 48V feed into the controller and cut the wire from the OBC?

[Sobeewan]

OK, I just tested the blue wire coming out of the OBC harness and at the pin (from the backside) on the controller side. Both have 48V.

Thanks for the assistance.

[Sobeewan]

sthreatt, There are no wires or junctions that are hot, the solenoid doesn't get hot, and I never detected the smell of electrical burning. However, I will check short to ground tomorrow when I get decent lighting back. Thanks for the help.

[Sobeewan]

Does anyone have a wiring diagram with the correct pin outs for this cart? Or a test procedure for the Curtis 1510 wires?

[Fairtax4me]

Ok, so are you getting 48v to controller pin 5? If you have voltage coming out of the OBC on the light blue, but no voltage getting to the controller pin 5, then there is damage to the wire or corroded terminals in the connectors. You need 48V on pin 5 for the controller to function.


To get movement you need Tow/Run switch input, Key switch input, F/R switch input, OBC interlock input, and Throttle switch input, then throttle signal voltage.
The only ones that will affect the reverse buzzer not working (assuming it actually does work) would be pins 5, 9, or 16.

Pin 5, Light Blue wire is OBC 48v in to disable the charge interlock.
Pin 9, Grey wire is from the Tow/Run switch, 48V when in Run.
Pin 16, Blue wire is 48v input from the FnR switch when in Reverse.

The other main pins that affect controller operation are
Pin 6, Green wire which is 48v input from throttle switch. Should be 48V with throttle pressed.
Pin 10, Tan or Light Brown wire Key switch input. 48V with Key On.
Pin 8, White wire FnR switch Forward input. 48v with FnR in F.



Another possibility is if you do not have a pre-charge resistor on the solenoid, the reverse buzzer may not sound until the solenoid engages. The pre-charge resistor does have to be there, but mostly to prevent burning the contacts in the solenoid.

This diagram from the stickies should be pretty close to yours.

[Sobeewan]

THANKS!!!!!

OK, so I had a bad wire at pin number 5. When I inserted the probe, I would get a voltage reading. When I took it out, I wouldn't. The wire at the pin was corroded so I fixed the wire going into the pin and now it runs! Thanks for giving me that latest information as I wouldn't have found that out if I didn't have it.

The wiring diagram you gave was mostly correct for my cart, except the coloring of the wires and on pin 4 I have a green and white wire instead of it not being used (it goes to the purple wire on the OBC harness and has no voltage in KO/Run), and the 48V input from the FnR switch when in reverse is on pin 12 as a dark blue/white wire instead of pin 16.

The color differences of my cart's pin outs are as follows in case it helps anyone.
Pin 1 - White instead of black/white
Pin 3 - Purple/white instead of purple
Pin 4 - Green/white instead of blank
Pin 8 - Black wire instead of white
Pin 12 - Dark blue/white instead of blue

Now, I have another question. This thing has sat for so long the motor is not running smoothly. Is there an easy way to fix it with some sort of spray that anyone knows of or am I going to have to pull it and clean all the contact surfaces? Or should I just drive it around and let it clean itself?