07-26-2021, 03:43 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 41
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REALLY stuck clutch
Just broke the tool off in the clutch trying to remove it. My impact just twistied it into. So, Is this best method to get it off?
https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/show...87&postcount=7 I assume I am going to have to drop the engine out since there is no space pull it apart. CC 1200/Bobcat 2100 with the fe400 engine. EDIT Had a shower and time to think on this. DRIVE CLUTCH not driven clutch 1. I am assuming that I need to pull the clutch apart so that I can grind and split the inner shaft apart. Is that correct? 2. My frame rail is to close to allow me to put the puller on it. So I am thinking the engine will need to be lowered and/or removed. 3. I am thinking maybe I can pull the bolts on the leaf springs in the front and that will allow the engine/transaxle to pivot downward? Looks like it should but I need to take a closer look. |
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07-26-2021, 04:51 PM | #2 |
Bonafide Nincompoop
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Charlottesburg Va
Posts: 8,987
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Re: REALLY stuck clutch
That's kind of a cruddy situation. I've hammered on my clutch puller plenty of times with an impact and never had any second thought to it not surviving it's job.
Where did you get your puller? Perhaps it was defective from the get-out? Might be a brand that others will want to avoid. Yes, you can remove the spring bolts, do both front and rear on that side. Also remove the tab that holds the cradle up where it engages into the frame. And you may also need to remove the nut from the bottom of the shock on that side. Be sure to pay attention to fuel hoses and the Ground wire from the starter to the frame when lowering the engine down. I like the heat and hammer method. Remove the outer cover, spring and moveable sheave, and the center bearing if it will come off. Heat around the base of the clutch shaft with a propane torch for a minute or so to try to get heat into the tapered collar in the back. Once it's good and hot smack the end of the clutch shaft Up or Down with a BFH. Usually it will pop loose from the taper. If not, then you get to cut it. Be careful of the end of the crankshaft not to gouge it up too much. |
07-26-2021, 05:08 PM | #3 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 41
|
Re: REALLY stuck clutch
Bad thing is I borrowed the tool. Looked like a cheap one to me and I think this confirmed it. Obviously I will be buying two tools now.
I have an acetylene torch, no problem getting if hot. Rather not have to cut it off if I can avoid it. Really concerned about hitting the shaft. One more question. Looking at new clutches. This has the fe400 and is key start. Original clutch is 101833908 per the manual. No aftermarket that I see lists that part number. Wondering if they are the same except for the spring inside? |
07-26-2021, 07:42 PM | #4 |
Bonafide Nincompoop
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Charlottesburg Va
Posts: 8,987
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Re: REALLY stuck clutch
Yeah clutches for 290, 350, and 400 are the same as far as I know. The spring is different on the key start clutches.
Buy the cheap one, put your old spring in it. |
07-27-2021, 08:09 AM | #5 |
Gone Crazy
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chesterfield, Va
Posts: 6,021
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Re: REALLY stuck clutch
If you need to buy two tools, at least get two good quality ones and give one a try before you trash the clutch.
Spray it down good with some Blaster or Aerokroil penetrating oil and let it soak over night. WD-40 is a water displacing spray, not a penetrant. Give it time to work. try to save it...... |
07-27-2021, 08:48 AM | #6 |
Bonafide Nincompoop
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Charlottesburg Va
Posts: 8,987
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Re: REALLY stuck clutch
I kinda figured if he's pulling the clutch off it's probably pretty well worn out at this point.
Plus the broken off puller is gonna be wedged in there tighter than a dried up snot wad. |
07-27-2021, 08:55 AM | #7 | |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 41
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Re: REALLY stuck clutch
Quote:
I need to replace the one I borrowed and will probably just pick up one for myself. But if I replace the clutch I shouldn't need one. |
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07-28-2021, 01:25 PM | #8 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 41
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Re: REALLY stuck clutch
Dreaded this but it wasn't that bad. Lowered the motor but had to take the leaf spring loose from the axle to get the clutch apart but it wasn't bad.
Pulled the clutch apart and the shame of it is it in good shape, just dirty. The weights stick a little and I think taking it apart and cleaning everything it would work just fine. Minimal wear but I see why it was sticking. Faces are worn a little but not bad at all. Since the puller was broken off inside I figured the fixed face was under a lot of tension. Two taps with medium hammer and it flew off at my face. Scared the crap out of me but it came off with minimal damage and no heat was required. No way I am getting what is left of the puller out so I am going to have to buy a new clutch. It's a shame too but I will save the old one for parts just in case. Thanks for the advice. It really helped. |
07-28-2021, 01:51 PM | #9 |
Bonafide Nincompoop
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Charlottesburg Va
Posts: 8,987
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Re: REALLY stuck clutch
Normally if the weights have any wiggle to them they need to be replaced.
The slide buttons get grooved up pretty bad and those can be replaced. But the rear test is if the moveable sheave has any wear in the middle, or if the teflon guides in the sheave are worn it can wobble around on the center shaft. If there is any wobble to that or you can rock it back and forth more than just a hair then its better to just replace the clutch. It's possible it was replaced before and someone went Hans and Frans on the clutch bolt. Torque on the retaining bolt should only be like 25ft lbs if I remember right. |
07-28-2021, 06:30 PM | #10 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 41
|
Re: REALLY stuck clutch
I was coming to ask what exactly to look for. The weights have a very good fit on the shaft (looks like dowel pins to me). No movement at all. The shafts and bushings in the weights were dirty and just a little stiff.
I pulled each one out. Cleaned everything really good and polished the pins with some 600 grit after cleaning. Everything fits really well and moves as it should. No slack what so ever. Perfect fit on the shafts. Only thing I saw was a bit of a grove where the wavy washer had pressed on the weights. I saw some minor looking wear on the buttons. I need to pull them next and double check them. I just printed out the part diagram because I couldn't remember which way the spring went. Tomorrow I will put together minus the spring and check everything else out. I checked the faces on the clutch and they are pretty flat. Seems to be more wear on the large side and no belly in the middle. Again. long day and I will check it close tomorrow. Thanks for all the input! |
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