2003 TXT Troubleshooting help needed

[duhwhat]

You described the symptom and probably cause very well... It does feel like it's cutting off as I decelerate... Now if I can digest and understand what you said to do about it...
" I usually start by making the cable really loose and with the FNR locked in N start it and set the idle. Then set the cable to just move the throttle plate after the pedal micro switch clicks. May lose that 1 mph but will drive much smoother.."

I would much prefer a smooth ride than a high top end.

I'll have to get my brain rapped around how this micro switch plays a role in things.

Thanks so much for your patience and help.

[kgsc]

With the key on, when you push the go pedal a micro switch gets activated and sends voltage to the starter solenoid to start the engine. Pushing the pedal also moves the throttle cable to make the cart go faster. Turn the key to off, push the pedal and see if the throttle moves before you hear the click from the micro switch in the floor. If it does the cable is too tight. It is adjusted in the box under the floor mat behind the go pedal. If it doesn't move the idle may be too high. Adjust this by locking it in neutral. To do this put the lever in N and on the back there is a small inch long piece with an arrow on the end. Pull that out and spin it 180 degrees. That will lock it in neutral. Once done, turn on the key and push the pedal until it starts and spin the idle screw counter clockwise until it is running at idle.

[sccowboy]

The micro switch is what energizes the start circuit and triggers the solenoid. If it "clicks" and the throttle plate is not fully closed, then the engine will start with too much throttle. Same if you crank yourriding mower with the throttle half open. This causes jerky acceleration and upon decelerating, can cause a backfire. Because your micro switch is cutting the ignition off with the throttle partially open.

Start with making sure the throttle plate is fully closed by loosening the stop screw.

[duhwhat]

Turned out to be the throttle or idle screw. It had been tightened down to much and was at a high RPM at start. It could never idle down enough without letting off the throttle to where the micro switch kicked off. Runs much smoother now.
I can't say I necessarily have the governor and throttle cables perfect, but it runs pretty good now.
On to the transmission linkage adjustment. It can be tough to get into reverse sometimes and there is also some lag in engaging at times. I'll search for an answer.

[sccowboy]

Try going back through both of the links I gave you. You should be able to get it dialed in with those. If someone put a shorter belt on the cart then it can be a little harder to shift it especially into reverse on an incline. Have you got the service guide: http://products.jacobsen.com/img/manuals/605586.pdf

[StoveBolt]

I'd back out the idle screw all the way or take it out and toss it.

[duhwhat]

It's darn near backed out all the way. :)

[duhwhat]

Originally Posted by sccowboy

Try going back through both of the links I gave you. You should be able to get it dialed in with those. If someone put a shorter belt on the cart then it can be a little harder to shift it especially into reverse on an incline. Have you got the service guide: http://products.jacobsen.com/img/manuals/605586.pdf

It's got what looks like a normal lift kit and it's just resistant to coming out of forward at times. I'll tinker with it.

Ya'll got me 100% better off than when this thread started. Many thanks!

[sccowboy]

What Stove is trying to say is that the stop bolt is really not needed in this application. The guide listed above will help you adjust the shift cables, etc. If you can, read the shorter belt thread and see what belt is on the cart. When you replace the worn one you have, you could go with the shorter one and pick up some torque.

[duhwhat]

After tinkering with it this morning I'm finding things I missed when I read it earlier because I have a better picture of the whole thing.

One thing I'm not sure of is that the governor cable is almost out of adjustment at the rear. The bracket comes back counter clockwise but the cable doesn't really apply a whole lot of pull back. I don't know how important that is.

SCCOWBOY, you said the belt should be 1 3/16, but I see 1 1/18 on some of the sites that sell them.