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Old 07-22-2015, 04:41 PM   #1
redcloud
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Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 320
Default 91 marathon 3pg governor seal repair

I have just repaired my marathon governor seal for the actuator shaft and thought maybe some one could use the info as to how I did it.
My unit was well used before I purchased it and the actuator shaft was very loose and made it very hard to adjust the carb linkage so I did a repair thusly.
First, Removed the carb linkage from the bell crank arm that the throttle cable pulls on. Removed the nut and lock washer from the top of bell crank arm. Released the arm spring, pulled the arm off the keyed top part of the actuator arm and swung aside. I then took off the washer, spacer and spring and set aside. Then took a small pair of vice grips and locked onto the top verticly on the flats of actuator shaft top to hold upward pressure on the shaft so it would not fall into rear end when the E-clip was removed. There is an E clip at the very bottom of the shaft sitting on the top of the seal lock bolt/nut. While holding the shaft up, I released the E clip and then pulled the last washer up to the vice grip and held it there while I took a wrench and loosened the nut that is the bolt on top of the rear end the actuator shaft goes through.
I used a pipe to put on the end of the wrench that passed through by the rear wheel to brake it free, then hand loosed after til it was off the rear end. I then took a small needle nose vice grip and locked it on the actuator shaft right at the top of the rear end to hold the actuator shaft up then released the top vice grip from shaft and removed the seal/nut.
The brass seal nut had two small roll pins for the shaft to ride on to stay solid but they had warn oblonged. The rubber seal that is in the top of the nut in a recess was also oblonged and allowing oil to come out. I removed the rubber seal and found a punch the same size as the roll pins and drove both out the bottom of the nut while holding the nut in a vice. I was going to go and check on getting a roll pin to fit as I had none that size in my stock but thought why not make one from something else.
I had a 2" brass threaded tube used on light fixtures in my electrical supply that would fit into the nut if I threaded the nut with the threads. I used a 1/8"NPT tap and threaded the hole in the nut so the threaded tube would thread right into the nut. The threaded tube inside hole was to small for the actuator shaft but close, so I threaded the tube into the nut till it flushed with the base of the rubber seal recess and locked the nut along with a piece of flat stock to hold the threaded tube from going out when I drilled the tube from the exposed end. Using a drill bit still a bit smaller than needed till it hit the flat stock making sure the nut was perfectly lined up for a true boring. I had mic'ed the actuator shaft on rear end and made a sample shaft to test the hole.
Now I removed the brass tube and turned it around to install the bored end into the nut and took the nut and locked the brass exposed tube into my vice, not the nut, again with rubber seal end facing out, flushed the tube at rubber seal base. I took my dremel tool with a smaller barrel type cutter and reamed the tube out all around till it fit the sample shaft I made. I made the honing a bit larger to allow for heat expansion and no binding.
Now I removed the brass tube and put red locktite on it and reinstalled it to flush to base of rubber seal again and cut off the exposed end of the brass tube to the bottom of the nut as it hits a shoulder on the shaft. I did a reeming of the ends and cleaned out the brass tube well.
Now came the rubber seal of which I was sure could not be found so I had a box of viton O rings from harbor freight and found a larger O ring but it was to large for the shaft sample and the recess in the nut. I found that it could be pushed into the recess and shrunk it so it fit the sample shaft very nice. I took some axle grease and put some into bottom of the nut so the shaft would drag it in as I installed it.
I then went to the cart and dropped the nut onto the shaft along with the flat washer that covers the O ring and under the e-clip. I reinstalled the small vice grip to the top of the actuator shaft to hold it and removed the needle nose grip and threaded the nut back into the rear end top. Then installed the E-clip. Now the shaft is held up and I could release the top grips. Installed the spacer, spring and keyed washer onto shaft, then the bell crank arm. Installed the lock washer and nut then with a small screw driver re-clipped the bell crank spring on then carb linkage.
Now the actuator shaft is nice and solid and thus the carb can be adjusted to a better tolerance.
A bit lengthy but I hope it helps some one else deal with the same issue.
It cost me nothing to do by the way.
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