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Old 11-23-2015, 08:05 AM   #11
lockman1
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Default Re: First Step is Admitting a Problem

Yeah... well.... it can still be done if you don't mind having the shifter in reverse while driving forward!
97 is a weird year... Half of the cart has leftover parts from 96, and half updated parts!

Let us know what Geoff says!
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Old 11-23-2015, 01:41 PM   #12
MudHog
South LA Coonass
Yamaha
 
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Location: New Iberia, LA
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Default Re: First Step is Admitting a Problem

VG does have a cradle/package for the 97+ models. When I was on their website I was overlooking the 97+ link.


Now for a question: I knew something looked odd at the front of this cradle and I've figured out that the snubber is missing. Is this something that I can change without having to pull everything apart?
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Old 11-23-2015, 01:47 PM   #13
lockman1
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Default Re: First Step is Admitting a Problem

Yep!

If you support the engine pan with a jack, you can unbolt the snubber bracket, install the snubber to it, and remount the bracket with the snubber... done!

Snubber 3.jpg
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Old 11-23-2015, 02:03 PM   #14
MudHog
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Default Re: First Step is Admitting a Problem

Awesome, thanks for the picture. Mine is metal to metal right now.
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Old 11-26-2015, 06:23 PM   #15
MudHog
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Default Re: First Step is Admitting a Problem

Even though it is Thanksgiving Day, I'm not thankful of Club Car at the moment. Got my bushing in and did the front with no problems. Went to the back and quickly realized that the rear upper bolt is installed inward facing outward and the bagwell interferes with the removal of each sides bolts. The only thing I can see if remove the rear body or atleast raise the rear enough to get the bolts out and back in.

I thought having the sleeves rusted on the bolts was my worst problem, that is a piece of cake compared to the two rear upper bolts.
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Old 11-26-2015, 07:43 PM   #16
lockman1
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Default Re: First Step is Admitting a Problem

Sadly... that's a common problem!
Make sure to use anti-seize on the bolts before you put them back in just in case you have to take them out again in the future!
(plus... it eliminates squeaks!)

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Old 11-27-2015, 05:01 PM   #17
MudHog
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Default Re: First Step is Admitting a Problem

Bushings changed and new snubber installed. Took it for a spin around the yard and decided to pull the carb off to clean it. Starts without having to use the choke now.

What are my options as far as disabling the governor? I've read the Speed thread in the sticky area and considering removing the RPM ground wire?
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Old 11-27-2015, 08:52 PM   #18
lockman1
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Default Re: First Step is Admitting a Problem

Disabling the ground on the rev limiter won't help "up your speed"!
However... using a Zip Tie on your governor spring... will!

Govenor Zip-Tie 001.jpg
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Old 11-29-2015, 06:59 PM   #19
MudHog
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Default Re: First Step is Admitting a Problem

I decided to do the loosening of the clamp method and now have a noticeable different in engine performance and speed. I didnt' get to GPS the speed, but will try and do that this week or this coming weekend. I want to hook up my tiny tach as well to see engine RPMs as it seems the engine shuts off. I suppose this is the rev limiter, but seems at a low RPM. Anyone know the RPM that the rev limiter does engage at?

I will need to pull my as there is a lot of rattling going while driving. Can this be removed with the body on? As in, can the bolt be removed and puller bolt be inserted with the body on?
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Old 11-30-2015, 06:50 AM   #20
lockman1
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Default Re: First Step is Admitting a Problem

I think the rpm limiter kicks in around 3900 rpms, 42 to 4400 rpms is about the max for safe cruising, around 4800 is when the valves start to float! (boom!)

You didn't finish the second part of your question, but I'm guessing your talking about your drive clutch,
yes... it can be removed without removing anything else!
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